Amp Popping and Humming…

Anyone ever change fuses in an amp?

Can I just use any fuse or are there audiophile grade tubes I should look into?

After some back and forth emails with the people at Kinki Studio they suggested I try changing the fuses on the right channel of my EX-M1+ and sent me some instructions for doing the act.
 

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Anyone ever change fuses in an amp?

Can I just use any fuse or are there audiophile grade tubes I should look into?

After some back and forth emails with the people at Kinki Studio they suggested I try changing the fuses on the right channel of my EX-M1+ and sent me some instructions for doing the act.
Good to know they were helpful in trying to sort the issue!
 
Anyone ever change fuses in an amp?

Can I just use any fuse or are there audiophile grade tubes I should look into?

After some back and forth emails with the people at Kinki Studio they suggested I try changing the fuses on the right channel of my EX-M1+ and sent me some instructions for doing the act.
I had to change a power fuse in my Rogue once. fuses is fuses as far as I’m aware.
 
I had to change a power fuse in my Rogue once. fuses is fuses as far as I’m aware.
You CAN buy 'audiophile' fuses for a fair bit of green. They are sold exclusively for idiots who appreciate placebos. NO difference whatsoever.

Now, a linear power supply is often a good idea - if it is a good one.

A power conditioner is really little more than a filter. I've never come across one that will block a significant surge, that's why they are called 'conditioners', not surge protectors.

A whole house surge protector is essential for any significant equipment investment. They cost about $300-500 and attach between the breaker box and the main electrical trunk line coming into it. Stops ANY surge cold. When we purchased our current house, it was first in.

The described issue is not a fuse issue, as a fuse popping renders the channel dead. The surge more likely damaged one or more capacitors, hence the described noises. I would say it is a design defect that the surge didn't simply pop the fuse, as that is exactly what the fuse purpose is - to blow when a surge comes in, in order to save the components upstream from it. The fuse is the first line of defence and is intended to sacrifice itself for the greater good.

Except when the damage is so severe the circuit board is unsalvageable, any amp can be repaired by a competent tech. Barring possibly any custom transformers, everything in there is a commonly available part, particularly resistors and capacitors.

Good news! The resistors and caps inside most, if not all, commercially available amps are pretty cheap. If it is a damaged cap, look at upgrading both channels, particularly coupling/output capacitors. The sound upgrade will be significant.
 
You CAN buy 'audiophile' fuses for a fair bit of green. They are sold exclusively for idiots who appreciate placebos. NO difference whatsoever.

Now, a linear power supply is often a good idea - if it is a good one.

A power conditioner is really little more than a filter. I've never come across one that will block a significant surge, that's why they are called 'conditioners', not surge protectors.

A whole house surge protector is essential for any significant equipment investment. They cost about $300-500 and attach between the breaker box and the main electrical trunk line coming into it. Stops ANY surge cold. When we purchased our current house, it was first in.

The described issue is not a fuse issue, as a fuse popping renders the channel dead. The surge more likely damaged one or more capacitors, hence the described noises. I would say it is a design defect that the surge didn't simply pop the fuse, as that is exactly what the fuse purpose is - to blow when a surge comes in, in order to save the components upstream from it. The fuse is the first line of defence and is intended to sacrifice itself for the greater good.

Except when the damage is so severe the circuit board is unsalvageable, any amp can be repaired by a competent tech. Barring possibly any custom transformers, everything in there is a commonly available part, particularly resistors and capacitors.

Good news! The resistors and caps inside most, if not all, commercially available amps are pretty cheap. If it is a damaged cap, look at upgrading both channels, particularly coupling/output capacitors. The sound upgrade will be significant.
Whole house surge protector has been installed.

I’m going to open up the amp and see what things look like inside. I’m hoping it can be fixed. It’s a great sounding amp.
 
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