Equipment Recommendations - The Home For New System and Upgrade Advice

Melt Face Molly Drop said:
If I'm not mistaken, Zu will allow you to select the bare wire option when purchasing (either at their shop or eBay). They do respond pretty well to e-mails though if you've got a question. Had a lengthy discussion with one of their employees when trying to pinpoint where a speaker hum was originating.
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Thanks!! I’ll shoot them an email.

*actually in their eBay description it states that at checkout you can select connector options.
 
Ginormousthumbs said:
Thanks!! I’ll shoot them an email.

*actually in their eBay description it states that at checkout you can select connector options.
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I can confirm if you buy any of their speaker cables through eBay you choose the connector options after you win an auction. I ended up getting banana plugs on mine while back but you can get bare wire or spades too.
 
Ginormousthumbs said:
Are the Zu Mission loudspeaker cables a good fit for my Marantz? The speaker connects are the push button/oval open where the wire goes through. Looking at the Mission, it has the horseshoe ends. My gut is telling me no but I just wanted to check with the experts.

View attachment 61459
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If you order via eBay you can specify how they terminate (wire, spade, wide spade, plug) but I would just check to see if the gauge would fit

Edit:. I am redundant and should have scrolled down, but yep, I can confirm it too :)
 
Ginormousthumbs said:
According to the spec sheet they’re #13 AWG so I should be good.
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I have a similar set up to yours, Omen DWs powered by a receiver made in 1978 with those spring clips. I use this 16 AWG speaker wire and I don't think I could fit a thicker wire in the clip. My user manual recommends "18-gauge lamp cord" and 16-gauge for runs over 50 feet.
 
I sent my Musical Fidelity M2si back to Analogue Seduction a couple weeks ago for a replacement (at their request) and then last Friday i got this email:

"I have now completed the inspection and test of your returned Musical Fidelity amplifier and everything is performing to the Manufacturers specification. There is no hum, noise clicks or pops from either channel from input through to speaker output. Subs quite often make a pop or oomph sound when amplifiers are turned on and off which will be more noticeable if volume levels are set high when switching on and off.

The amplifier has been on soak test playing music on all inputs to my satisfaction as the senior test and repair Engineer.

The cause of the problems you have experienced are being caused by signals being received by the amplifier, the amplifier is not at fault here.

We will return the item back to you."

Not what i expected but i guess the fault was elsewhere. I got it back a couple days ago and hooked everything up yesterday, hit the power button, and the crackle is still there in the left speaker. I played a record yesterday and my turntable did the same thing it's been doing on and off for a few months where it makes the record static as it's playing (maybe an issue with the ground cable?). I could hear a slight increase in the crackle and hum from the left speaker due to the static so i worried that the turntable was the issue. But today i took the amp out, unplugged the RCA cables for the sub and CD player and the Blue Jeans audio cables so all that was left was the power cable and speaker cables, which are brand new so i know they're not the issue. Turned it back on and still crackle. Thought maybe the UK to DK adapter wasn't earthed so i connected that to an adapter which definitely was but still crackle.

So unless i'm missing something, it has to be the Musical Fidelity, right. I think i've eliminated all other options except maybe the power strip.
 
Try disconnecting as much stuff as you can. Maybe start with just the amplifier and the speakers and see if they crackle just with that. Then try adding back one component at a time until the issue returns.
 
The Denmarkian Wonder said:
I sent my Musical Fidelity M2si back to Analogue Seduction a couple weeks ago for a replacement (at their request) and then last Friday i got this email:

"I have now completed the inspection and test of your returned Musical Fidelity amplifier and everything is performing to the Manufacturers specification. There is no hum, noise clicks or pops from either channel from input through to speaker output. Subs quite often make a pop or oomph sound when amplifiers are turned on and off which will be more noticeable if volume levels are set high when switching on and off.

The amplifier has been on soak test playing music on all inputs to my satisfaction as the senior test and repair Engineer.

The cause of the problems you have experienced are being caused by signals being received by the amplifier, the amplifier is not at fault here.

We will return the item back to you."

Not what i expected but i guess the fault was elsewhere. I got it back a couple days ago and hooked everything up yesterday, hit the power button, and the crackle is still there in the left speaker. I played a record yesterday and my turntable did the same thing it's been doing on and off for a few months where it makes the record static as it's playing (maybe an issue with the ground cable?). I could hear a slight increase in the crackle and hum from the left speaker due to the static so i worried that the turntable was the issue. But today i took the amp out, unplugged the RCA cables for the sub and CD player and the Blue Jeans audio cables so all that was left was the power cable and speaker cables, which are brand new so i know they're not the issue. Turned it back on and still crackle. Thought maybe the UK to DK adapter wasn't earthed so i connected that to an adapter which definitely was but still crackle.

So unless i'm missing something, it has to be the Musical Fidelity, right. I think i've eliminated all other options except maybe the power strip.
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Have you swapped your left and right speakers to see if the sound follows?
 
apholden said:
Try disconnecting as much stuff as you can. Maybe start with just the amplifier and the speakers and see if they crackle just with that. Then try adding back one component at a time until the issue returns.
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Disconnect the power cables for the other stuff or do you mean the cables connected to the amp? If the latter, i've done that. Everything but the speaker cables and the power cable for the amp. Still crackle.
 
kvetcha said:
Have you swapped your left and right speakers to see if the sound follows?
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I did before i sent it back. The crackle moved from the left speaker to the right so it must be something with the Left Speaker Output on the amp. That was one of the reasons why i decided to upgrade the speaker cables while i waited :)
 
The Denmarkian Wonder said:
Disconnect the power cables for the other stuff or do you mean the cables connected to the amp? If the latter, i've done that. Everything but the speaker cables and the power cable for the amp. Still crackle.
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Well crap. I meant disconnect the components from the amp.

What about the amp's power/ Did you plug it directly into the wall or a power strip. If a strip, does it have any sort of power conditioning?

Is there anything else plugged into the same circuit like an air conditioner? If your amp has a 3-prong plug, then did you test the outlet for a good ground?
 
apholden said:
Well crap. I meant disconnect the components from the amp.

What about the amp's power/ Did you plug it directly into the wall or a power strip. If a strip, does it have any sort of power conditioning?

Is there anything else plugged into the same circuit like an air conditioner? If your amp has a 3-prong plug, then did you test the outlet for a good ground?
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I use a standard power strip where i have the turntable, CD player, preamp, amp and subwoofer plugged in. It does not have a power conditioner.

I bought the amp from the UK so i had to get a UK to DK adaptor which is earthed. I thought maybe it wasn't so i connected it to one of these adaptors but it was the same results.

1597436509823.jpeg
 
I'm not sure how much such a thing costs in Denmark, but I've used devices with 3 LEDs to test electrical outlets in America. Different patterns of LEDs indicate various wiring faults. I've seen outlets with the ground pin disconnected, usually in older houses. My dad even tells of an outlet that had its ground pin wired to hot--smoked a $10,000 computer.
Here is a link to such a tester that's available in an EU version: HT106B Socket Outlet Tester Circuit Polarity Voltage Detector+Winpeak ET8900 Voltage Tester Pen | Alexnld.com
 
apholden said:
I'm not sure how much such a thing costs in Denmark, but I've used devices with 3 LEDs to test electrical outlets in America. Different patterns of LEDs indicate various wiring faults. I've seen outlets with the ground pin disconnected, usually in older houses. My dad even tells of an outlet that had its ground pin wired to hot--smoked a $10,000 computer.
Here is a link to such a tester that's available in an EU version: HT106B Socket Outlet Tester Circuit Polarity Voltage Detector+Winpeak ET8900 Voltage Tester Pen | Alexnld.com
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Something like that would probably around $35-40 here.

I'll check the online stores where i've bought power converters and adaptors, see if they have something like that. I have been thinking about getting a snazzier power strip, just not sure what.
 
The Denmarkian Wonder said:
I sent my Musical Fidelity M2si back to Analogue Seduction a couple weeks ago for a replacement (at their request) and then last Friday i got this email:

"I have now completed the inspection and test of your returned Musical Fidelity amplifier and everything is performing to the Manufacturers specification. There is no hum, noise clicks or pops from either channel from input through to speaker output. Subs quite often make a pop or oomph sound when amplifiers are turned on and off which will be more noticeable if volume levels are set high when switching on and off.

The amplifier has been on soak test playing music on all inputs to my satisfaction as the senior test and repair Engineer.

The cause of the problems you have experienced are being caused by signals being received by the amplifier, the amplifier is not at fault here.

We will return the item back to you."

Not what i expected but i guess the fault was elsewhere. I got it back a couple days ago and hooked everything up yesterday, hit the power button, and the crackle is still there in the left speaker. I played a record yesterday and my turntable did the same thing it's been doing on and off for a few months where it makes the record static as it's playing (maybe an issue with the ground cable?). I could hear a slight increase in the crackle and hum from the left speaker due to the static so i worried that the turntable was the issue. But today i took the amp out, unplugged the RCA cables for the sub and CD player and the Blue Jeans audio cables so all that was left was the power cable and speaker cables, which are brand new so i know they're not the issue. Turned it back on and still crackle. Thought maybe the UK to DK adapter wasn't earthed so i connected that to an adapter which definitely was but still crackle.

So unless i'm missing something, it has to be the Musical Fidelity, right. I think i've eliminated all other options except maybe the power strip.
Click to expand...

Had this with my M6i. It was a WiFi powerline that was arsing it up.

Also completely screwed with my previous phono (Trichord Dino) to the extent I switched to a Slee (which is ace).
 
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