Ah I dunno. I just know the L100s needed 400 watts to open up at like, dinner volume. Just curious really. The Fortes are far more efficient than the JBLs.I think so, but how low-dB are we talking?
Yeah I'm wondering whether the JBLs suddenly opening up so much at low volumes is down to the extra power of the Lyngdorf or just the amp itself and the way it operates, irrespective of the power.. Like I'm wondering if I added a power amp to the Arcam if it would have the same result.The Forte requires 1W to get to 99 dB (at one meter away). The L100 produces 90 dB at the same power input and distance. To get 99 dB requires about 8W of power into the JBL.
This is why high sensitivity speakers can sound good at low volumes, because the speakers will displace more air with less input. The Fortes tend to be low distortion at low volume.
Hence why the Lyngdorf 3400 is doing so well I guess. I'm debating getting the Lyngdorf 2400 power amp to add to the Arcam, it's the same 400 watts as the 3400.From HiFi News:
“On the face of it JBL has not resorted to punishingly low impedance to achieve [good sensitivity] – the L100 Classic is honestly specified as 4ohm nominal (no '8 ohms compatible' nonsense) and we measured a minimum impedance of 3.5ohm.
Unfortunately its low frequency impedance phase angles are very high as a result of which the EPDR (equivalent peak dissipation resistance) dips to a low of 1.3ohm at 82Hz.
In other words, this speaker does present a pretty tough (low frequency) amplifier load even for a modern design.”
From that last line, I’d suspect that a higher spec power amp than the Arcam would produce better bass output with the L100.
I added a bit about the type of power delivery the speaker needs. It needs high current versus high power.Hence why the Lyngdorf 3400 is doing so well I guess. I'm debating getting the Lyngdorf 2400 power amp to add to the Arcam, it's the same 400 watts as the 3400.
Ah. That also makes sense because the 3400 is 40 amps I think? The 2400 power amp is also 40 amps so I think it may have the same effect.I added a bit about the type of power delivery the speaker needs. It needs high current versus high power.
I added a bit about the type of power delivery the speaker needs. It needs high current versus high power.
So the exact opposite of what I have hahaha. WELL THEY SOUND GREAT WITH BOTH AMPS I HAVE SO SUCK IT SCIENCESo they’d like tubes and class a in general then.
Yeah, they sound great with low-power amps. My 12W tube amp drove them easily.So they’d like tubes and class a in general then.
Well… tube amps typically have a high output impedance (e.g. low damping factor) compared to solid state amps. You’d want the output impedance to be at least 20 times lower than the minimum EPDR. I say 20 instead of 10 since at low EPDR, the resistance of the speaker cable itself can be of significance.So they’d like tubes and class a in general then.
This makes sense. Bass certainly tightened up when I went to solid-state, but there is a certain lush presence (e.g. euphonic distortion) to the tubes that was very enjoyable for a lot of music.The price for a high output impedance is less woofer control and a poorer frequency response. I like iron-fisted driver control, so I also prefer amps with damping factors over 200. Some people prefer the lower and mid frequency “bloom” of a high impedance tube amp.
You're smart.Well… tube amps typically have a high output impedance (e.g. low damping factor) compared to solid state amps. You’d want the output impedance to be at least 20 times lower than the minimum EPDR. I say 20 instead of 10 since at low EPDR, the resistance of the speaker cable itself can be of significance.
So, in this case a max output impedance of 0.065 ohms or a damping factor of about 120. John Siau of Benchmark recommends at least 150. Not many tube amps have an output impedance that low.
The price for a high output impedance is less woofer control and a poorer frequency response. I like iron-fisted driver control, so I also prefer amps with damping factors over 200. Some people prefer the lower and mid frequency “bloom” of a high impedance tube amp.
The Forte has this issue, too. Between 80-150 Hz, the Forte EPDR dips below 2 ohms and may not be a good impedance match for many tube amps, even though its sensitivity is high and it requires little power to produce high volume. I think @HiFi Guy had this issue with his tubed Stingray amp with the Forte.
The 3400 has a dampening factor of 266 (8 Ω, @100 Hz). I can't find anything about the max output impedance. But I guess that would explain why I'm getting so much more bass out of them now.Well… tube amps typically have a high output impedance (e.g. low damping factor) compared to solid state amps. You’d want the output impedance to be at least 20 times lower than the minimum EPDR. I say 20 instead of 10 since at low EPDR, the resistance of the speaker cable itself can be of significance.
So, in this case a max output impedance of 0.065 ohms or a damping factor of about 120. John Siau of Benchmark recommends at least 150. Not many tube amps have an output impedance that low.
The price for a high output impedance is less woofer control and a poorer frequency response. I like iron-fisted driver control, so I also prefer amps with damping factors over 200. Some people prefer the lower and mid frequency “bloom” of a high impedance tube amp.
The Forte has this issue, too. Between 80-150 Hz, the Forte EPDR dips below 2 ohms and may not be a good impedance match for many tube amps, even though its sensitivity is high and it requires little power to produce high volume. I think @HiFi Guy had this issue with his tubed Stingray amp with the Forte.
This is why I went bi-amp to get sound with best of both worlds.The 3400 has a dampening factor of 266 (8 Ω, @100 Hz). I can't find anything about the max output impedance. But I guess that would explain why I'm getting so much more bass out of them now.
So basically with the Forte IVs the Lyngdorf may give up a bit in the highs with the horns vs tubed but it's going to have rock solid control on the lows which is where the tubes might have issue.
Yeah I'm debating grabbing a couple of the 2400 power amps at heavy discount.This is why I went bi-amp to get sound with best of both worlds.
Plus the increased headroom is killer.
I feel the need to emphasize again that you will be rattling the walls with 10W of output.Yeah I'm debating grabbing a couple of the 2400 power amps at heavy discount.
Haha I know it would just be to bi amp and then a second to add to the Arcam upstairs so it has the same heft. I likely won't. But it's a thought since these units are also 60% off show demos.I feel the need to emphasize again that you will be rattling the walls with 10W of output.
Or try a small tube amp for the horns. Let the SS power handle everything below 650Hz.Yeah I'm debating grabbing a couple of the 2400 power amps at heavy discount.