MoFi UltraDeck / StudioDeck Owners and those interested

Made some adjustments to my Hana SL
Overhang and azimuth were slightly off. I can already tell it sounds better. I guess this one is fussier to set up properly.
Imaging and channel separation are excellent. My only complaint is a lot more clicks and pops than I would get from the Mastertracker, and some extra surface noise.
,
 
renpar61 said:
Made some adjustments to my Hana SL
Overhang and azimuth were slightly off. I can already tell it sounds better. I guess this one is fussier to set up properly.
Imaging and channel separation are excellent. My only complaint is a lot more clicks and pops than I would get from the Mastertracker, and some extra surface noise.
,
Click to expand...
Do you have a record cleaning solution? Like a Humminguru or something?
 
renpar61 said:
Made some adjustments to my Hana SL
Overhang and azimuth were slightly off. I can already tell it sounds better. I guess this one is fussier to set up properly.
Imaging and channel separation are excellent. My only complaint is a lot more clicks and pops than I would get from the Mastertracker, and some extra surface noise.
,
Click to expand...
What gain are you using with the SL?
 
Angsty said:
What gain are you using with the SL?
Click to expand...
On my JD9, known for having a lot of gain, I have it set on the MC High using hi-out. Not sure what the exact gain is, maybe 70db? I tried lower gain (MM setting) but I would have to turn the volume on my amp well past the middle to reach decent listening volume, normal volume would have the knob at70%.
I know it shouldn’t be an indicator, but my current setting matches the volume level of my DAC input.
 
renpar61 said:
On my JD9, known for having a lot of gain, I have it set on the MC High using hi-out. Not sure what the exact gain is, maybe 70db? I tried lower gain (MM setting) but I would have to turn the volume on my amp well past the middle to reach decent listening volume, normal volume would have the knob at70%.
I know it shouldn’t be an indicator, but my current setting matches the volume level of my DAC input.
Click to expand...
The heightened sound of clicks and pops can also be due to overload in the phono. This causes clipping in the phono amp, creating a form of momentary distortion. Many phonos these days have abysmal overload margins, so clipping can happen a relatively low gain.

70dB gain is probably too much for the SL, which is likely to play best at 55-60 dB gain. 70 dB is ten times more voltage gain than 60 dB. The maximum gain on my Sutherland Insight was 60 dB. I think I ran the SL at 55 dB.
 
renpar61 said:
On my JD9, known for having a lot of gain, I have it set on the MC High using hi-out. Not sure what the exact gain is, maybe 70db? I tried lower gain (MM setting) but I would have to turn the volume on my amp well past the middle to reach decent listening volume, normal volume would have the knob at70%.
I know it shouldn’t be an indicator, but my current setting matches the volume level of my DAC input.
Click to expand...
From my experience, the Hana SL likes gain in the area of 60 db. I looked up the JD9 and the gains at different settings are not real clear. Then I looked up the limited schematic info available and I believe have an understanding of your pops and clicks. The JD9 is using the tubes as output devices, not part of the RIAA gain stage. The primary gain is provided by OP AMPS - not necessarily a bad thing. You do miss out on the headroom provided by an all tube phono but probably have less noise. The Hana is a pretty quiet cartridge with the Shibata stylus profile, most likely the overload recovery characteristics are the reason for your pops.
 
Bob from Florida said:
From my experience, the Hana SL likes gain in the area of 60 db. I looked up the JD9 and the gains at different settings are not real clear. Then I looked up the limited schematic info available and I believe have an understanding of your pops and clicks. The JD9 is using the tubes as output devices, not part of the RIAA gain stage. The primary gain is provided by OP AMPS - not necessarily a bad thing. You do miss out on the headroom provided by an all tube phono but probably have less noise. The Hana is a pretty quiet cartridge with the Shibata stylus profile, most likely the overload recovery characteristics are the reason for your pops.
Click to expand...
I appreciate the explanation. The JD9 is indeed very quiet.
I know the opamps play a big role, last week I ordered some Burson V5i which are supposedly great in the JD9.
I’m going to try the low output jacks, should be about 7-8db less gain. I also have 6db attenuators I could use on the phono input, but I like the low out solution better
 
🤯
I can’t believe it was that simple!!!
Switched to lo-out jacks and what an improvement! I never use the low because the manual says to use hi-out if connecting to an integrated amp. I only played with the dip switches in the back. I guess the gain was the real issue here.
not only clicks and pops are reduced to an acceptable level, but the sound improved overall, much better bass response and better focus. Loving it!!
Thank you for the tip!!!!
 
AnthonyI said:
Actually, the Sonata3 is what I'm currently running and it comes in at $150 less than the Hana SL. That said, if things would have played out a little differently I'd still have the Hana in the stable. But I've been on a "limited" waste mentality, and I've had so many carts at this point that I know what I'm looking for, the Grado checked all the boxes..........so did the Hana, with a bit more detail to it without losing that little bit of warmth. It became a +detail | -warmth VS +warmth | -detail comparison and the difference was minimal at best, so we went with what I find more appealing, warmth.

I've been tempted to pick up the SL again, but talk myself out of it because there is no logical reason to spend the money. The Sonata3 and Hana SL are in the same ballpark, literally standing next to each other, lol. The Hana is my fave MC cart, the Sonata my new fave MI cart.

I'd like to have both at some point, but again, I can think of a few things I could spend that money on instead ;)


CORRECTION NOTED ;)
Click to expand...
Hello. How did you go about setting up the Sonata on your Ultradeck? Anti skating?...tracking force...tools to set the cart on the arm?

I would appreciate any help

Thank you
 
bdemz said:
Hello. How did you go about setting up the Sonata on your Ultradeck? Anti skating?...tracking force...tools to set the cart on the arm?

I would appreciate any help

Thank you
Click to expand...
Didn't have the Sonata when I had my UltraDeck, but I did have an Opus3, same setup though.

Mounted the cart first, having a threaded body makes things a lot easier. Used a GeoDisc to align it, connected my cartridge leads and set the anti-skate to the 1st notch, this would be the one closes to the tonearm assembly. Lastly adjusted the VTA and VTF. The VTA on the UltraDeck is easy, but be careful. There is a small set screw on the collar of the tonearm assembly, loosen it WHILE HOLDING THE TONEARM ASSEMBLY. If you don't the tonearm assembly will drop straight down.

Grado have an "odd" anti-skate theory that goes against the norm, so don't be thrown off by my notch 1 comment. I currently have a Sonata3 on my 1210G and the anti-skate set to 1. It's always worked perfectly.

Hope this all helps.
 
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scorpio333 said:
I used a JD9 for 4-5 yrs. You can also run 5751 tubes in there. 5751’s have 70% the output of 12ax7’s. If you’re curious about them, look for a cheaper matched pair before splurging on the pricey ones. It’s NOT for everyone, but if you want to back the gain off more, they do work.
Click to expand...
I actually tried NOS RCA 5751s, and EH 12AT7.
They do work for the gain, but the sound was not as good as the 12AX7 Mullard or the new JJs I recently installed.
 
haven't had a chance to use my ultradeck in awhile and noticed a bit of grease or something under my cue lever last night. is that something i need to fix/buy more of to add to the cue lever?
 
MikeH said:
haven't had a chance to use my ultradeck in awhile and noticed a bit of grease or something under my cue lever last night. is that something i need to fix/buy more of to add to the cue lever?
Click to expand...
I had that exact experience following my cross country move.

That being said I’ve done nothing to address it, but around that time my tone arm actually slipped in the move so I had to raise it back up and adjust VTA to where it should be. I also noticed around that time the actual tone arm rest (that little silver bit that it slides left and right on) had come lose as well so I tightened that up. Might be worth checking all that?

Haven’t seen any grease drops since then and haven’t noticed any issues.
 
Just joined here after reading nearly all of this thread, think ive got the jist of highs and lows of the UD,

Looking to replace my AT120 in my main system with Rogue Sphinx V3 and Lintons, right now i think im narrowed down to the GR or the Ultradeck.

I need to keep my cost under $2000 (including tax) and i am leaning UD currently.

I have a AT VMN540ML on my AT120 with about 150 hours on it, so plenty of life left. Should i go for the UD without cart and swap my 540 over to it or go with the ultratracker? If i got the ultratracker, my 540 would go to my family room table (AT120 with 95e, about 175 hours on it) when the time is right.

Or do i go without a cart, swap 540 onto the UD and wait out its life and then go for a Hana or Soundsmith (most likely end of the year or beginning of 2025, holiday sales dependent).

My wife would definitely like to see me spending $1500 vs $1800 right now, especially if the ultratracker is good but that $300’extra will got further in the future.

I just dread having to put thr 540 on the UD, not the best at cartridge setup, just a pain in the ass.

Thanks all, glad to be here!
 
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