The Technics Turntable Fan Club - Questions, Advice, Discussion

MacDonals said:
I am thinking of getting a renovated SL1210-MK5G to replace my MoFi StudioDeck that just has too many issues. I'm pretty intrigued by the direct drive, and the reviews I'm seeing are good.

This model does not come with a headshell and cartridge, so I was considering a Nagaoka MP-200. I like their clear sound, but I notice that many in this thread have AT cartridges. Are AT's known to work best with this deck? Is there anything I should be aware of if I get that Nagaoka (aside from possible VTA adjustments)?
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Ultimately you need to be happy with what you have, but seeing that your SD was new if I remember correctly, I would definitely push for a replacement and see what you think, they are two completely different animals. I know issue on new gear are a pain in the ass, but I would try and avoid a knee-jerk reaction. Again, that being said, you have to be happy with the decision. Hopefully it all works out for you.
 
MacDonals said:
I am thinking of getting a renovated SL1210-MK5G to replace my MoFi StudioDeck that just has too many issues. I'm pretty intrigued by the direct drive, and the reviews I'm seeing are good.

This model does not come with a headshell and cartridge, so I was considering a Nagaoka MP-200. I like their clear sound, but I notice that many in this thread have AT cartridges. Are AT's known to work best with this deck? Is there anything I should be aware of if I get that Nagaoka (aside from possible VTA adjustments)?
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My set up is not nearly as nice as many on here but I did switched over to an MP-110 from an AT-95E this past Spring and while it took a couple months to break in, I am very pleased with the overall results.
 
MacDonals said:
I am thinking of getting a renovated SL1210-MK5G to replace my MoFi StudioDeck that just has too many issues. I'm pretty intrigued by the direct drive, and the reviews I'm seeing are good.

This model does not come with a headshell and cartridge, so I was considering a Nagaoka MP-200. I like their clear sound, but I notice that many in this thread have AT cartridges. Are AT's known to work best with this deck? Is there anything I should be aware of if I get that Nagaoka (aside from possible VTA adjustments)?
Click to expand...

I don't have any experience with the MP-200, but I did have an MP-110 on my 1210MK5 (again, not the same as the 1200MK5G) and it sounded pretty good. It did cause random static discharges while playing, which I tried to troubleshoot but could never find a solution other than it was cartridge-dependent. I ended up upgrading to the AT shibata cartridge (the AT150sa at the time, the current equivalent being the VM750SH) and it's much more detailed at the high end without losing anything with low frequencies. I love this cart with my 1210.
 
MacDonals said:
I am thinking of getting a renovated SL1210-MK5G to replace my MoFi StudioDeck that just has too many issues. I'm pretty intrigued by the direct drive, and the reviews I'm seeing are good.

This model does not come with a headshell and cartridge, so I was considering a Nagaoka MP-200. I like their clear sound, but I notice that many in this thread have AT cartridges. Are AT's known to work best with this deck? Is there anything I should be aware of if I get that Nagaoka (aside from possible VTA adjustments)?
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I think with the newer AT VM95 ML a lot of it is that you are getting such an advanced stylus at such a low price point. It really is very popular. If you have a look around across the forum the Grado Gold3 and Opus3 are also really popular cartridges.
 
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Turbo said:
I don't have any experience with the MP-200, but I did have an MP-110 on my 1210MK5 (again, not the same as the 1200MK5G) and it sounded pretty good. It did cause random static discharges while playing, which I tried to troubleshoot but could never find a solution other than it was cartridge-dependent. I ended up upgrading to the AT shibata cartridge (the AT150sa at the time, the current equivalent being the VM750SH) and it's much more detailed at the high end without losing anything with low frequencies. I love this cart with my 1210.
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I had the exact same issue with the static discharge. But over the last 3 month it has almost completely stopped. I would make slight adjustments to the counter weight and ran it a bit heavy for awhile but as I lightened the load back to the recommend weight it seems like it had wore in and the static discharge only happens on a super rare occasion now. I was about ready to give up and switch back to my AT but I kept futzing with it and thankfully it seems like it wore in nicely.
 
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TenderLovingKiller® said:
I had the exact same issue with the static discharge. But over the last 3 month it has almost completely stopped. I would make slight adjustments to the counter weight and ran it a bit heavy for awhile but as I lightened the load back to the recommend weight it seems like I wore in and the static discharge only happens on a super rare occasion now. I was about ready to give up and switch back to my AT but I kept futzing with it and thankfully it seems like it wore in nicely.
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It's interesting to hear that wears out! I actually boxed mine and will pass it on to one of my local buddies who wants to try a Nagaoka on his (non-Technics) deck.
 
Turbo said:
It's interesting to hear that wears out! I actually boxed mine and will pass it on to one of my local buddies who wants to try a Nagaoka on his (non-Technics) deck.
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It drove me nuts initially almost every record I spun had these nasty shotgun pops of static. Some it would happen every minute or two and they would make me jump out of my seat. I tried the zero stat gun but that didn’t help much. Then one day in a fit of rage I think I kept adjusting the counter weight heavier and replaying a particular album over and over again. I noticed the heavier I had the tonearm set the less static charge would occur and I just kept making it heavier until it could make it all the way through the whole LP without issue but it was waaay too heavy at that point so I lessened the weight a good amount but still kept it on the heavy side and over the next month or so I would slowly lighten the load here and there until I finally got it back to the recommended weight. The issue had almost completely dissipated now. I can now go month or two without a single pop.
 
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TenderLovingKiller® said:
It drove me nuts initially almost every record I spun had these nasty shotgun pops of static. Some it would happen every minute or two and they would make me jump out of my seat. I tried the zero stat gun but that didn’t help much. Then one day in a fit of rage I think I kept adjusting the counter weight heavier and replaying a particular album over and over again. I noticed the heavier I had the tonearm set the less static charge would occur and I just kept making it heavier until it could make it all the way through the whole LP without issue but it was waaay too heavy at that point so I lessened the weight a good amount but still kept it heavy on the heavy side and over the next month or so I would slowly lighten the load here and there until I finally got it back to the recommended weight. The issue had almost completely dissipated now. I can now go month or two without a single pop.
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"Shotgun pop" is a really good way to describe it. Drove me batshit too because I loved the sound of the cartridge but couldn't take the popping anymore. So I threw money at the problem, i.e. a new cart. But I first bought an Ortofon 2M red and hated hated it. I played it for maybe a week and decided I couldn't withstand any more break-in time with it. Went back to the MP-110. That's when I did some research and found that people loved pairing AT's with the 1200 (I think it was the AT 440 and 150 series that people liked at the time - the AT lines are different now) - so I decided to give the 150sa a shot. It's fantastic. I picked-up a 150sa stylus right before it got discontinued but the new VM750SH stylus fits on the 150sa body, so I'm good whenever time comes.
 
Say you buy a component for your setup which requires being connected by a ground cable (and power cable) and the only ground connectors you have are on the turntable and preamp which are in use. Can you connect more than one ground to one connector or do you need to add something else to do that?
 
The Denmarkian Wonder said:
Say you buy a component for your setup which requires being connected by a ground cable (and power cable) and the only ground connectors you have are on the turntable and preamp which are in use. Can you connect more than one ground to one connector or do you need to add something else to do that?
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If your amplifier, for example, has a metal chassis, you can slightly unscrew one of the chassis screws at the back, put the other end of the ground wire in there and tighten it back up again.
 
The Denmarkian Wonder said:
Say you buy a component for your setup which requires being connected by a ground cable (and power cable) and the only ground connectors you have are on the turntable and preamp which are in use. Can you connect more than one ground to one connector or do you need to add something else to do that?
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you can connect more than one grounding wire to a grounding post.
 
I called today for the first time since March. They’ve got no update. I think it’s a little weird that there is no release from Technics about the lack of availability. I’m sticking it out because I really want it to be the last table I buy. I’m enjoying the hell out of the Sony/SME/Shure/SAS combo in the meantime.
 
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