Equipment Recommendations - The Home For New System and Upgrade Advice

I'm even more confused lol. I dont know how to multiquote bu here's the original topic..
@Englishbob You could always try the Darlington MM-6. Comes with a money back guarantee. Also, which Grado Gold do you have, a 2 or a 3?
Click to expand...
How do you tell between a 2 and 3? I researched it and found a whole lot of nothing.
I'm still debating on the MM-6. I've been chatting with them but I'm naturally cautious especially when it comes to new products.
 
Englishbob said:
I'm even more confused lol. I dont know how to multiquote bu here's the original topic..

How do you tell between a 2 and 3? I researched it and found a whole lot of nothing.
I'm still debating on the MM-6. I've been chatting with them but I'm naturally cautious especially when it comes to new products.
Click to expand...
When did you buy the Gold?
 
Mr Moustache said:
How much did you get from the trade up program (like % from initial price)? I am thinking of trading up my pre whenever I feel ready to go for the 20/20, and as you said, it avoids the hassle of selling it yourself.
Click to expand...
The turntable was about 5 years old at the time and they gave me 54% of what I originally paid for the table, so I was pretty happy to get more than half of what I paid for it originally with the added bonus of it being hassle free. There are two additional caveats worth mentioning to...
  1. This might be obvious, but you pay for the shipping price of the item you are trading in, which in the case of a turntable was not an insignificant amount. This is probably where I took the biggest hit over selling it myself.
  2. You purchase the new item you are buying at full price and then once they receive your trade in item the amount is refunded back to you.
The second point was actually a positive in my eyes, because it gives you the chance to try out the new gear with their 60 day trial period before sending your old gear back. So I kept my old turntable for about a month while I made sure the StudioDeck was right for me.
 
So I tried the EVO / Zu with 16 ohms. I had been running 8ohms with snubbers on my last two amps. This seemed to prefer 16 with no snubbers. Should I get a different set of snubbers to make it closer to 12ohms? or just rock and roll with 16ohms? Thanks.

Never mind. I’ve not slept n a few days. I’ll save ridiculous questions for next week.
Can’t go the other direction with loading. 😋
 
Last edited:
VMPKJ said:
So I tried the EVO / Zu with 16 ohms. I had been running 8ohms with snubbers on my last two amps. This seemed to prefer 16 with no snubbers. Should I get a different set of snubbers to make it closer to 12ohms? or just rock and roll with 16ohms? Thanks.

Never mind. I’ve not slept n a few days. I’ll save ridiculous questions for next week.
Can’t go the other direction with loading. 😋
Click to expand...
Let me make sure I understand your situation. You have 12Ω Zu speakers, and you're hooking them up to a 16Ω amplifier? If that's correct, then you can wire a 4Ω resistor in series with the speaker, meaning one end of the resistor goes on the + terminal, and the other end goes to the red wire. The resistor's wattage should be at least ¼ of the amplifier's wattage.
 
apholden said:
Let me make sure I understand your situation. You have 12Ω Zu speakers, and you're hooking them up to a 16Ω amplifier? If that's correct, then you can wire a 4Ω resistor in series with the speaker, meaning one end of the resistor goes on the + terminal, and the other end goes to the red wire. The resistor's wattage should be at least ¼ of the amplifier's wattage.
Click to expand...
Yes that's it. I can do series but was looking for parallel snubbers. It sounds great! I'll leave it for now. Thanks!
 
VMPKJ said:
Yes that's it. I can do series but was looking for parallel snubbers. It sounds great! I'll leave it for now. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Fair enough. Series to increase the resistance of the speakers. Parallel to decrease it.

Just don't turn it to 11. Since the resistance of your speakers is lower than what your amp is set for, the currents will be higher. If you set the volume too high, you might damage your amplifier.
 
Okay. I'm getting random volume jumps on longer listening sessions. I'm not sure if its the Manley or the EVO. My hunch is the Manley due to the fact that the volume makes a clicking sound when you adjust the volume, and there is the same sound being made around the time of the jumps.
 
VMPKJ said:
Okay. I'm getting random volume jumps on longer listening sessions. I'm not sure if its the Manley or the EVO. My hunch is the Manley due to the fact that the volume makes a clicking sound when you adjust the volume, and there is the same sound being made around the time of the jumps.
Click to expand...
It’s the Manley. It uses what’s called a resistor ladder volume control. When the volume is adjusted, you are hearing the clicks as the control switches from one resistor to the next.

A “normal” volume control is continuously variable. There is no clicking as the volume is adjusted.

A resistor ladder volume control is the best there is, IMHO. At any given volume setting, the signal is only going through one resistor. This is assuming the manufacturer is using high quality resistors- and I’m sure Manley does. Resistors can vary widely in price. A generic no name resistor can be a few cents. A Dale Vishay costs about 45 cents, a Takman is a buck. You can get resistors from Japan that might be blessed by Buddhist monks for $25. A resistor ladder control made with those would cost thousands.

Although resistor ladder controls are technically the best, I prefer a variable Alps Blue Velvet. Depending on the number of resistors and the values, you may not be able to get the exact volume you want. You’ll either get too low or too high. This will be a bigger issue if the control has 64 steps as opposed to 128.

I’m wondering if there is a factory reset procedure for your Manley. I’d check the manual.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top