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Yeah, I deduced that it was due to the clicking which it makes when using volume.

I'm away from the unit for a week, so I have to test it when I get back. But, there is a feature to limit the volume on the Manley to keep guest users from blowing up your good headphones. It's completely out of the circuit turned to one direction. I thought it was off because the label is not clear to me, (it's a minimum to maximum triangle). I thought max was max volume. Upon reading, it may be that I had this feature set exactly backwards. Perhaps I only noticed it occasionally because I'm a relatively low volume listener and only on really dynamic music swells was it jumping. I flipped it the other direction, but then had to leave so I can't test it till later.

As far as the notches, I love it. the jumps are not that bad from one setting to another.
It's not the "Volume Protection Circuit." That is set correctly and after an hour or so of listening with speakers the clicking comes and goes and the volume randomly shoots up and then down. Manley is already in contact for the solve.
 
It's not the "Volume Protection Circuit." That is set correctly and after an hour or so of listening with speakers the clicking comes and goes and the volume randomly shoots up and then down. Manley is already in contact for the solve.
The dealer opened a ticket with Manley. Upon contact Manley asked If I was okay with a repair. I'm a bit taken back at the request. Am I missing something? I'm fine that they need to test the unit, as it could conceivably be a tube or some such (though in this case I think not) , but I don't think I should be needing a repair for a unit that was in my possession for less than two weeks before it started to malfunction should I?
 
The dealer opened a ticket with Manley. Upon contact Manley asked If I was okay with a repair. I'm a bit taken back at the request. Am I missing something? I'm fine that they need to test the unit, as it could conceivably be a tube or some such (though in this case I think not) , but I don't think I should be needing a repair for a unit that was in my possession for less than two weeks before it started to malfunction should I?
Maybe they are skirting around whether you would prefer a replacement as opposed to a repair, since it is a brand new unit. But a malfunctioning unit may very likely need to be repaired
 
Maybe they are skirting around whether you would prefer a replacement as opposed to a repair, since it is a brand new unit. But a malfunctioning unit may very likely need to be repaired
That's what think they are doing. My question is should I be okay with paying full price for a unit I had to send straight back?
 
Are you thinking about asking for a refund? Others here will have to offer their experience with Manley reliability, that's too close to the sun for me.
 
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Are you thinking about asking for a refund? Others here will have to offer their experience with Manley reliability, that's too close to the sun for me.
I'm thinking I want a different unit.

It is possible that they simply don't have enough to swap ATM or that they are trying not to. They were very low stock everywhere when I got it.
 
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The dealer opened a ticket with Manley. Upon contact Manley asked If I was okay with a repair. I'm a bit taken back at the request. Am I missing something? I'm fine that they need to test the unit, as it could conceivably be a tube or some such (though in this case I think not) , but I don't think I should be needing a repair for a unit that was in my possession for less than two weeks before it started to malfunction should I?
As @dansomeone said, just ask. When I got my open box PL something wasn't right with one of the tubes or sockets, they had me try a few things but then replaced it without question. Its a tough call from a company stand point, but from a consumer stand point, if I just bought something and it's not working, send me a new one, repair the one I send back on your time and dime, then sell it as refurbished..........but you paid for new, it should be functioning properly for more than 14 days.

I didn't have any issue with my Manley, but did have a few conversations with EveAnna and she seemed pretty much a "customer" first type of person, so I would reach out.
 
As @dansomeone said, just ask. When I got my open box PL something wasn't right with one of the tubes or sockets, they had me try a few things but then replaced it without question. Its a tough call from a company stand point, but from a consumer stand point, if I just bought something and it's not working, send me a new one, repair the one I send back on your time and dime, then sell it as refurbished..........but you paid for new, it should be functioning properly for more than 14 days.

I didn't have any issue with my Manley, but did have a few conversations with EveAnna and she seemed pretty much a "customer" first type of person, so I would reach out.
This was my thought. Yes it was new.
 
The dealer opened a ticket with Manley. Upon contact Manley asked If I was okay with a repair. I'm a bit taken back at the request. Am I missing something? I'm fine that they need to test the unit, as it could conceivably be a tube or some such (though in this case I think not) , but I don't think I should be needing a repair for a unit that was in my possession for less than two weeks before it started to malfunction should I?
Here’s how I see it. They shouldn’t even be messing with a repair. Yours should go back and be refurbished and resold at a reduced cost. You should get a brand new unit. Make sure to record the serial number to make sure you don’t get the one you have now back again.

I have no experience with the model you bought. I’ve only had experience with the Jumbo Shrimp Pre, Mahi monoblocks and the Stingray integrated. They were all really solid. No issues. I do know that a slew of the headphone amps hit the market as B Stock not long after they came out. Usually B Stock indicates cosmetic imperfections, but in light of the issue you are experiencing, who knows?
 
Here’s how I see it. They shouldn’t even be messing with a repair. Yours should go back and be refurbished and resold at a reduced cost. You should get a brand new unit. Make sure to record the serial number to make sure you don’t get the one you have now back again.

I have no experience with the model you bought. I’ve only had experience with the Jumbo Shrimp Pre, Mahi monoblocks and the Stingray integrated. They were all really solid. No issues. I do know that a slew of the headphone amps hit the market as B Stock not long after they came out. Usually B Stock indicates cosmetic imperfections, but in light of the issue you are experiencing, who knows?
That’s how I see it too. I know it sounds fantastic. I did record it. Here’s hoping it’s not an ongoing issue with the units.

This made me nervous as I’m waiting on a set of Mahi’s to be built.

Based on my limited experience with tube circuits, and the design of the volume section, I’m wondering if this is an issue with a bad run on a part that was used.
We shall see.
 
That’s how I see it too. I know it sounds fantastic. I did record it. Here’s hoping it’s not an ongoing issue with the units.

This made me nervous as I’m waiting on a set of Mahi’s to be built.

Based on my limited experience with tube circuits, and the design of the volume section, I’m wondering if this is an issue with a bad run on a part that was used.
We shall see.
I honestly wouldn't overthink it too much. The nature of your issue leans more toward a single bad component, which happens, and not some overarching design flaw, which might justify a bit more anxiety. They've got a reputation to uphold. I imagine they'll make it right.
 
I honestly wouldn't overthink it too much. The nature of your issue leans more toward a single bad component, which happens, and not some overarching design flaw, which might justify a bit more anxiety. They've got a reputation to uphold. I imagine they'll make it right.
That’s exactly what I’m thinking. A run of bad caps or resistors from your source is common in analogue circuits.
 
Hi all,

Had some questions on PrimaLuna. This will be for my office setup. I just ordered the Falcon Acoustics Q7 kit (which I'm looking forward to putting together).
  1. Is it worth it to get the PrimaLuna EVO 200 over the EVO 100 ($600 difference)? I like the smaller size of the EVO 100. In the YT video, Kevin Deal mentions the EVO 100 can still be used with KT150s (just can't put the cage on). I don't need HT bypass since it'll be a dedicated two channel setup.
  2. I know the tubes are supposed to last a long time, but is there any benefit in only having to worry about two types of tubes (as in the 200) vs three types (as in the 100)?
  3. Is it worth it to ask Upscale to upgrade to the KT150s before they send to me?
Thanks in advance!
-Thomas
 
Hi all,

Had some questions on PrimaLuna. This will be for my office setup. I just ordered the Falcon Acoustics Q7 kit (which I'm looking forward to putting together).
  1. Is it worth it to get the PrimaLuna EVO 200 over the EVO 100 ($600 difference)? I like the smaller size of the EVO 100. In the YT video, Kevin Deal mentions the EVO 100 can still be used with KT150s (just can't put the cage on). I don't need HT bypass since it'll be a dedicated two channel setup.
  2. I know the tubes are supposed to last a long time, but is there any benefit in only having to worry about two types of tubes (as in the 200) vs three types (as in the 100)?
  3. Is it worth it to ask Upscale to upgrade to the KT150s before they send to me?
Thanks in advance!
-Thomas
I’d go EVO-100 especially in an office environment.

I get wanting to switch from the EL34s. I wouldn’t go to KT-150s though. I’ve heard them (in a different amp) and prefer KT-88s especially at 60% less. Also there are many different brands of KT88s, but only 1 major supplier of KT-150s.

No worries about the extra type of small tubes. They will last years and years and are inexpensive to replace when they get noisy. You’ll replace output tubes multiple times before the small tubes go bad.
 
I’d go EVO-100 especially in an office environment.

I get wanting to switch from the EL34s. I wouldn’t go to KT-150s though. I’ve heard them (in a different amp) and prefer KT-88s especially at 60% less. Also there are many different brands of KT88s, but only 1 major supplier of KT-150s.

No worries about the extra type of small tubes. They will last years and years and are inexpensive to replace when they get noisy. You’ll replace output tubes multiple times before the small tubes go bad.
Awesome, thanks @HiFi Guy!
 
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