MoFi UltraDeck / StudioDeck Owners and those interested

Thank you for the reply. My gut is telling me MP-200 (even though I don’t like the look much). Stylus replacement looks Like is less than 50% the price of the cartridge, unlike Ortofon which is like 75%. My thought process is that I’m coming from a nice bonded elliptica, that I might not fully appreciate what some exotic shapes provide without doing incremental steps, the next being nude elliptical.

I’d really love the Hana SL, but the Shibata shape has me nervous on setup since I’m a complete noob. The price also gives me a little pause because the stylus can’t be replaced by me and I don’t think I’m too keen on spending $800 every other year on a new one, also spending that much on my first ever cartridge purchase makes me think I’m crazy.

I know the MoFi Ultraphono CAN play MC, but if I was to dive in fully and go with a Hana SL, or even an EL, do you think that phono stage good enough with MC to make the purchase justified? Or would the MC purchase have me itching to spend even more on a “better” phono stage? Some of these questions and thoughts may by stupid, but my only frames of reference to TTs is my 1980 fisher price record player when I was a kid, my parent’s cheap early 80s no name brand that never had its cartridge replaced, and my current setup. I have no experience with listening to different carts or types.
One thing I will say is that whichever cart you decide, you should invest in a GeoDisc and a digital scale. They'll make life so much easier.

re: MC carts - I've found I prefer the sound over the MM carts I've used, but the whole re-tipping requirement means you basically have to have a backup cartridge on hand to use while your carts are shipped off somewhere for a few months to be rebuilt, which of course means more money. If that idea is unappealing to you, it might be worth sticking to MM carts with replaceable styli - there are plenty of nice options, and it also saves you the hassle of having to re-align every time.

If your phono stage is a concern, I might look into High Output Moving Coil carts, such as the Hana 'H' series. I'm currently running an SAE 1000LT, which bears some internal similarities to Hana's HOMC offerings, and it sounds terrific on the MoFi.
 
Thank you for the reply. My gut is telling me MP-200 (even though I don’t like the look much). Stylus replacement looks Like is less than 50% the price of the cartridge, unlike Ortofon which is like 75%. My thought process is that I’m coming from a nice bonded elliptica, that I might not fully appreciate what some exotic shapes provide without doing incremental steps, the next being nude elliptical.

I’d really love the Hana SL, but the Shibata shape has me nervous on setup since I’m a complete noob. The price also gives me a little pause because the stylus can’t be replaced by me and I don’t think I’m too keen on spending $800 every other year on a new one, also spending that much on my first ever cartridge purchase makes me think I’m crazy.

I know the MoFi Ultraphono CAN play MC, but if I was to dive in fully and go with a Hana SL, or even an EL, do you think that phono stage good enough with MC to make the purchase justified? Or would the MC purchase have me itching to spend even more on a “better” phono stage? Some of these questions and thoughts may by stupid, but my only frames of reference to TTs is my 1980 fisher price record player when I was a kid, my parent’s cheap early 80s no name brand that never had its cartridge replaced, and my current setup. I have no experience with listening to different carts or types.
All valid, I'm going to toss the Soundsmith Otello on the list, been enjoying that quite a bit on my TT..........best part is the re-tipping cost, $100 on a $400 cart, but, you do need to send it in. And the Grado Opus3.......still have this one as well.

If you're leaning towards user replaceable stylus, the Grado Gold is always solid as well as the Goldring 1042.

You should get some additional opinions eventually ;)
 
+1 on Hana SL. The MoFi Ultraphono can match the needs of a Hana SL on both gain (60 db) and loading (500 ohms).

If you are considering MM or MI cartridges for stylus replacement, I do recommend the Nagaokas. I use a MP-300 on my Luxman turntable today and it sounds wonderful. I also use a Hana SL on my other turntable and I don't expect to ever separate the two. The MP-200 also has a good reputation; I have rarely ever heard anyone say that they don't like it.

As a MC re-tipping benchmark, I spent about $250 to retip my Hana SL and it took three weeks to get back. Retipping a Hana EL or EH is less expensive.

Since you're just starting out on cartridges, my suggestion would be that a MP-150 at about $300 is a great place to start and figure out how (or why) you might upgrade later. The MP-200 is ~50% more and replacement styli cost more than an elliptical MC retip.
 
Hi everyone. I joined this forum/site specifically for this thread and all the knowledge shared. I bought my StudioDeck with StudioCart in October of 2020, so I’m going on 2.5 years with the same cartridge, still sounds good, but it’s probably time for a change. I‘ve been overwhelmed to the point of paralysis on the number of options between MM vs MC, nude vs bonded, stylus shapes, cantilevers, weights, frequency response, compliance (OMG this one just had me throw my hands up), price points, value, etc…. I’m hoping people here can point me in a good direction.

I’ve been back and forth so many times and I finally hit a breaking point last week when I started to read about compliance, which I’d never heard about before, then the headache of no definative answer on the tonearm weight, learning that Japanese compliance is measured differently than anywhere else and not having a conversion, then the difficulty of aligning some of the more exotic stylus types. I’ve never installed a cartridge before. I’ve been in the mindset of getting a reasonably expensive (for me) cart. I’ve been in the mindset of getting something cheaper in case I screw things up doing it the first time. I’ve been in the mindset of getting an exotic stylus, then to getting an elliptical for ease of install. And every review or opinion comes from people that have different equipment than me.

Finding this thread has been a blessing because most of the people here have gone through some of the same difficulties with at least mostly the same or similar base.

I’ve been looking at the Nagaoka MP-200, Ortofon 2M Bronze, Hana EL, Hana SL, Audio Technica VM540ML - ATVM95EN - ATVM95ML, and probably a few others. I was looking to move away from the MoFi carts, just for a change but may be willing to go for them if they are really the best option. I just didn’t like the idea of being locked into the MoFi ecosystem.

Can anyone help with some suggestions for my next move? I know speakers may be a weak point and that would be next after the cart since I’m probably on borrowed time after 2.5 years. I definitely want to stay sub $1000, and probably closer $500 +/- $100 max unless something in that $800 range is truly an unbelievable step-up from my budget.

Current Setup:

TT: MoFi StudioDeck
Cart: MoFi StudioTracker
Phono: MoFi UltraPhono
Amp: Cambridge CXA81
Speakers: Paradigm A2 active bookshelfs
Sub: SVS SB3000
I know there are so many great options to consider, good problems. But honestly, I’ve been so happy with the MasterTracker that when I finally replace it, I’ll be getting either the same cart or the UltraGold. I’m actually in a mode of don’t fix something that’s not broken.
 
I know there are so many great options to consider, good problems. But honestly, I’ve been so happy with the MasterTracker that when I finally replace it, I’ll be getting either the same cart or the UltraGold. I’m actually in a mode of don’t fix something that’s not broken.
Instead of the Ultra Gold, why not look at something similar in the A/T line? You save some money, or could get one of the ART9 series for the same money.
 
Instead of the Ultra Gold, why not look at something similar in the A/T line? You save some money, or could get one of the ART9 series for the same money.
Honestly, just removing that paradox of choice. I’ve been consistently happy with the MT, so if I went elsewhere I’d still be left curious about the UG. It might not be the best value on the market, but when the tone is right, it’s right.
Kind of the same with the phono stage. If that needed replacing, I’d likely go up the Sutherland line rather than somewhere else. Zesto always tempts me too, but not enough to pull out my wallet for one.
 
All valid, I'm going to toss the Soundsmith Otello on the list, been enjoying that quite a bit on my TT..........best part is the re-tipping cost, $100 on a $400 cart, but, you do need to send it in. And the Grado Opus3.......still have this one as well.

If you're leaning towards user replaceable stylus, the Grado Gold is always solid as well as the Goldring 1042.

You should get some additional opinions eventually ;)
@jerseytiger, I'm going to amend my comment here a little, the Otello is rock solid, but after seeing it's current price last night, it's hard to recommend.

From what I was told, the Otello was always Soundsmith's gateway cartridge, with the intentions of moving consumers up the line. Nothing wrong with that, but I was also told they were going to increase the price because they were loosing money on the cart, and, at it's $399 / $100 re-tip price point, people were just hanging on to them and had no real reason to move up the line I guess.

I get all that, but damn, a $200 price jump ($600 now) slides it out of my "bang for your buck" category.
 
@jerseytiger, I'm going to amend my comment here a little, the Otello is rock solid, but after seeing it's current price last night, it's hard to recommend.

From what I was told, the Otello was always Soundsmith's gateway cartridge, with the intentions of moving consumers up the line. Nothing wrong with that, but I was also told they were going to increase the price because they were loosing money on the cart, and, at it's $399 / $100 re-tip price point, people were just hanging on to them and had no real reason to move up the line I guess.

I get all that, but damn, a $200 price jump ($600 now) slides it out of my "bang for your buck" category.
Thanks. I noticed that when I looked up your suggestion yesterday and saw it was going for $600 on several sites.
 
Thank you for all of the suggestions. I wound up buying an SAE 1000e from a member that offered me a good price on it. I also ordered a Geo-disk for the alignment process. I will post some follow-up once I get it installed.

Also now that I’m thinking of it what is the forums recommendation on greasing/oiling the bearings? I’ve seen posts about white lithium grease. I already have “WD-40 Specialist White Lithium Grease Spray”. Would this work or do I need to get something different?
 
I wound up buying an SAE 1000e from a member that offered me a good price on it.
The SAEs are an incredible bargain with the NOS sale that went on a couple of months ago - a very solid complement to your table and phono.

I have two squirreled away for when I need new styli. The 1000LT will replace my Nagaoka in a few months when the Nag hits 500 hours.
 
Thank you for all of the suggestions. I wound up buying an SAE 1000e from a member that offered me a good price on it. I also ordered a Geo-disk for the alignment process. I will post some follow-up once I get it installed.

Also now that I’m thinking of it what is the forums recommendation on greasing/oiling the bearings? I’ve seen posts about white lithium grease. I already have “WD-40 Specialist White Lithium Grease Spray”. Would this work or do I need to get something different?
You can purchase a bearing grease from MOFI designed for this purpose .

  • Description
  • Bearing grease for MoFi turntables including StudioDeck and UltraDeck.

28b26d4d-628e-48f7-be5b-92e6975528a3.jpg
 
Checking in here to say something I never thought I’d say - I am enjoying the StudioDeck in my second system as much as the VPI, sometimes even more on certain records. I’m somewhat convinced that my first StudioDeck experience a half dozen or so years ago may have been hindered by something going on with the arm bearing, now that I’m more educated on turntables. It could have also been poor setup on my part back then! It’s a very different outcome than I had with my first go-round.

It remains having an “in charge” sonic footprint, and man does that arm track wonderfully. Speed stability is top notch as well.
 
Checking in here to say something I never thought I’d say - I am enjoying the StudioDeck in my second system as much as the VPI, sometimes even more on certain records. I’m somewhat convinced that my first StudioDeck experience a half dozen or so years ago may have been hindered by something going on with the arm bearing, now that I’m more educated on turntables. It could have also been poor setup on my part back then! It’s a very different outcome than I had with my first go-round.

It remains having an “in charge” sonic footprint, and man does that arm track wonderfully. Speed stability is top notch as well.
Learning is part of the journey! Glad to hear your investment in the StudioDeck is paying off.
 
Checking in here to say something I never thought I’d say - I am enjoying the StudioDeck in my second system as much as the VPI, sometimes even more on certain records. I’m somewhat convinced that my first StudioDeck experience a half dozen or so years ago may have been hindered by something going on with the arm bearing, now that I’m more educated on turntables. It could have also been poor setup on my part back then! It’s a very different outcome than I had with my first go-round.

It remains having an “in charge” sonic footprint, and man does that arm track wonderfully. Speed stability is top notch as well.
It's really nice to hear that you're liking the table so much more on your second go around! It really is a good deck.
 
I got the SAE 1000E from @Portland Sheriff (thank you) this afternoon and installed it. The install was less frustrating than I was expecting. The biggest hurdle was that one of the screws in the kit I got on EBay didn’t have the slot in it, so I had to pull out the dremel and make my own on a tiny screw head. Worked well though. Cart sounds great. I might need to fine tune the azimuth. It sounds good, but using the azimuth alignment tool it looks slightly off. I may adjust VTA as well, it looks like it may need to be a little lower than the StudioCart setting.

Edit: Added photos. Azimuth seems to be pretty spot on to me. Not sure about VTA. It’s supposed to be 20, but I can’t really figure out how to read it.

428151B0-8966-4A9B-AD86-F41B8AE4A1EE.jpegE09437B4-715E-47AF-B5ED-A4D6C6A5F46B.jpegD2B22ECF-F9C7-4593-B7D5-BBD9A92CC579.jpeg
 
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I got the SAE 1000E from @Portland Sheriff (thank you) this afternoon and installed it. The install was less frustrating than I was expecting. The biggest hurdle was that one of the screws in the kit I got on EBay didn’t have the slot in it, so I had to pull out the dremel and make my own on a tiny screw head. Worked well though. Cart sounds great. I might need to fine tune the azimuth. It sounds good, but using the azimuth alignment tool it looks slightly off. I may adjust VTA as well, it looks like it may need to be a little lower than the StudioCart setting.

Edit: Added photos. Azimuth seems to be pretty spot on to me. Not sure about VTA. It’s supposed to be 20, but I can’t really figure out how to read it.

View attachment 170750View attachment 170751View attachment 170752
Looking at the bottom of the guide , the line for 2.5 appears to be under the number so I expect you will read all setting this way ie the line is under the number .

I have found that sometimes moving the guide in front of the arm and using the dotted line on the arm as a reference also helps to check .
 
Looking at the bottom of the guide , the line for 2.5 appears to be under the number so I expect you will read all setting this way ie the line is under the number .

I have found that sometimes moving the guide in front of the arm and using the dotted line on the arm as a reference also helps to check .
So if the cartridge calls for the VTA to be 20 degrees what do I align the 20 line with? Top? Middle? The MoFi TT manual isn't much help. It just says to make the arm parallel to the record.
 
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