spydrwebb44
Member
Did a bit of research in the absence of replies, and it would appear the stock 115v cord is plenty adequate.
Sorry yes, while you can upgrade the TT power cord, it's probably (in general) the least important one to spend the money on. You could go for a relatively inexpensive upgraded cord, I can't remember the brand that has been suggested on here several times but I believe the cable is less than $100. But that's probably money better spent elsewhere until you get into the stratospheric upgrade path.Did a bit of research in the absence of replies, and it would appear the stock 115v cord is plenty adequate.
Pangea! That's the one, thank you for the assistThe basic equivalent cord is probably a $10 replacement, max. An approachably priced “upgrade” might be a Pangea AC-14SE. Note that I firmly do not believe that a more expensive AC cord will improve the sound of a turntable, but I can appreciate an aesthetic upgrade.
Here’s a head-scratcher; when the stylus is done on my Hana ML, I’m switching to a …Yes please let us know. My main thing is I have to go a bit warmer than the 2M Black but don't want to lose the dynamics. The 2M Black combined with the Halo JC3+ means I'm running a wee bit high on the detail side which is totally awesome for about 2/3rds of my collection, but then skews a bit too bright for the other third.
Yeah I have NO idea about the 120v vs 115. Probably best to stick with what they suggest.Not necessarily looking to upgrade the cord, but do see this as my end game table.. so I wouldn't be opposed for < $100. The Pangea is 120v and the stock VPI is 115v, does that difference not matter -- even when the owners manual says 115v only?
Anyone have links to less expensive alternatives?
The voltage spec matters not a bit here; either a 115v or 120v cord spec will do. Here is a less expensive alternative; simply chose your preferred length.Not necessarily looking to upgrade the cord, but do see this as my end game table.. so I wouldn't be opposed for < $100. The Pangea is 120v and the stock VPI is 115v, does that difference not matter -- even when the owners manual says 115v only?
Anyone have links to less expensive alternatives?
I've considered the MP 500 many times. It's still on my potentials list. Curious to hear your thoughts.Here’s a head-scratcher; when the stylus is done on my Hana ML, I’m switching to a …
Nagaoka MP-500. Half the MSRP and MC swap for a MM.
I was astonished how good the MP-300 sounded on my new table before I mounted the Hana ML. I made the switch because I had already sunk the cost on the ML retip and the Nag stylus had seen a lot of hours. But, economically, a Nag MP-500 stylus costs less than a ML retip and could be a step up from the MP-300 stylus.
Always something to experiment with in this hobby.
I love the MP-300, but have not heard the MP-500. Frankly, if I had heard the MP-300 earlier, I would have avoided the cost of a SUT for my integrated amp to play the Hana SL. Lessons learned along the way…I've considered the MP 500 many times. It's still on my potentials list. Curious to hear your thoughts.
Thank you.The voltage spec matters not a bit here; either a 115v or 120v cord spec will do. Here is a less expensive alternative; simply chose your preferred length.
I'd say your azimuth looks to be dipping pretty hard to the right, outside portion of the platter. And it looks like you're riding pretty low on the tail as well. Perhaps check your alignment, both azimuth vertical tracking angle. And tracking force as well just to be safe.Stopped into local Best Buy and picked up a cord for $18, seller picked up cost.
Tight on time and will offer more feedback soon, but right now I'm dealing with significant Left channel feedback. Tried several RCA interconnects, all by Snake Oil, with the same results.
Additionally, I'm new to the azimuth correction so it's hard to know if it's dialed in precisely. Here's some photos for now:
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Oh! Uh... everything the same from your previous setup just new table? Or new amp and table and cables? Feedback when exactly? Table Spinning but not playing? Amp on phono stage on? Amp on phono stage off?Also, Left channel feedback was before the needle was even lowered. Prior to learning additional arm adjustments, eliminating that will be my priority.
Any ideas?
There may be a thin metal rod, slightly thinner than a toothpick, in your box. It is for azimuth adjustment. Balance it in the groove on the headshell and tweak the azimuth until the rod appears to be level.I'd say your azimuth looks to be dipping pretty hard to the right, outside portion of the platter. And it looks like you're riding pretty low on the tail as well. Perhaps check your alignment, both azimuth vertical tracking angle. And tracking force as well just to be safe.
@spydrwebb44There may be a thin metal rod, slightly thinner than a toothpick, in your box. It is for azimuth adjustment. Balance it in the groove on the headshell and tweak the azimuth until the rod appears to be level.
@spydrwebb44 - Also, make sure you have the grounding cable attached to the phono.Oh! Uh... everything the same from your previous setup just new table? Or new amp and table and cables? Feedback when exactly? Table Spinning but not playing? Amp on phono stage on? Amp on phono stage off?