Equipment Recommendations - The Home For New System and Upgrade Advice

@Ghost - last thing I'll add on my input is related to demos. I'm lucky enough to be involved with a local audio club that has a ton of guys that are able and willing to spend comical amounts of money on audio. And one thing that I never understand is why they don't make a stronger effort to demo.

I tell them all that if you're looking at spending $10k+ on a component: a PTO day, flight and hotel room in LA/NYC/Chicago is CHEAP insurance to make sure you're getting what you want.

Sure the trip might cost you $600-1000 dollars, but in the big audio cities you could easily demo 5-10 major components in a day if you work with the right dealers. The logic is that being able to demo gear, especially multiple pieces should be worth 10% of the purchase price in my mind. Just to make sure you're happy and don't end up flipping it in a year or two for something else. As you go up the scale, this becomes even easier to justify.

Now we're obviously talking about half that price point. So does a flight make sense? Only if you want to take an audio vacation :)
However, at $5k I do think we're in the realm of a road trip and PTO day. I'd do that for sure. Plus if they take trades you could walk in and out without having to worry about selling, shipping, etc.

Not sure where you are located, but if you dig around you might find some great options in driving distance.
 
Ghost said:
So my initial desire was to get a VPI Prime but I've heard such nasty things about how finicky the tables are and how much of a pain the arm can be. Have you heard similar? I need to look more into Clearaudio decks, I haven't even considered them. Also havent heard of the Mark Levinson, checking that out now!
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A Prime with a gimbal tonearm (aka Prime 21) is not finicky like those with the unipivot. I believe @Mather has a gimbal arm on his Classic Signature. I have an earlier version on my Traveler - definitely not finicky.

Edit: Just catching up with all the thread responses today - Mather gave you all the details!
 
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Ghost said:
Yeah this thing is cool looking, I imagine its got to be the best sounding of the bunch too. Alot of them used for sub 4K it would appear. Has anyone owned one of these?
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You might want to do some homework on "suspension turntables" before you commit to buying one, especially used.

Same concept as a Linn, the new VPI One, and some others. They tend to be more upgradable and sound expectational. But I've always heard they are finicky.

But here's more info on that table:
 
displayname said:
You might want to do some homework on "suspension turntables" before you commit to buying one, especially used.

Same concept as a Linn, the new VPI One, and some others. They tend to be more upgradable and sound expectational. But I've always heard they are finicky.

But here's more info on that table:
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Completely agree with @displayname about the suspensions these 'tables utilize. What you've heard is true, they require attention from time to time. Klutzy to the point that only "experts" should tune them (Linn) to the arm according to some. They can be great with a good tune but tend to drift over time requiring more tuning.
By the way, the "new" VPI One is a rehashing of the VPI HW19 mk ii I started out with in 1987. An okay 'table in its time.
 
OMC said:
Completely agree with @displayname about the suspensions these 'tables utilize. What you've heard is true, they require attention from time to time. Klutzy to the point that only "experts" should tune them (Linn) to the arm according to some. They can be great with a good tune but tend to drift over time requiring more tuning.
By the way, the "new" VPI One is a rehashing of the VPI HW19 mk ii I started out with in 1987. An okay 'table in its time.
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Yeah no thanks lol.

I’m deciding to keep my search between the Volare and the Technics for now to keep things simple.
 
I may have just placed an offer on a used 1200G with a Hana ML already installed on it. Let's see if he's willing to let it go to me at a discount. The more I try to figure out if the Volare or the Technics is the better deck the more I gravitate towards keeping it stupidly simple and going for the G which I've heard in systems that have given me that "hifi" sound I crave. I know that deck can give me the sound I'm looking for.
 
He countered with a reasonable offer and I would be getting a Technics 1200G with a Hana ML with *supposedly* less than 50 hours on it for less than the price of a new 1200 with no cart.

My Hana SL is probs around the 800 - 1000 hour mark and would need a replacement in the next year.

This is feeling more and more like the opportunity for me.
 
kvetcha said:
I get the impression that brass is kind of a great material but for the cost.
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Yeah brass definitely has a premium appeal for me.

I asked AI just for fun.
Pretty decent summary.


When comparing brass and aluminum for a turntable platter, several factors come into play:

Weight and Mass:
Brass: Brass is generally denser than aluminum. A brass platter would provide more mass, which can contribute to better speed stability and less susceptibility to external vibrations. This increased mass can help in achieving a more consistent playback speed.
Aluminum: Aluminum is lighter. While this might mean less inertia, modern aluminum platters often feature designs like inverted shapes or are combined with other materials to increase effective mass.

Resonance and Vibration:
Brass: Brass has a different resonance characteristic compared to aluminum. It can either dampen or enhance certain frequencies depending on how it's integrated into the turntable's design. Brass might offer a warmer sound profile due to its material properties.
Aluminum: Aluminum tends to ring (resonate) at certain frequencies, which can be both good or bad depending on the design. Many high-end turntables use aluminum because it can be engineered to minimize unwanted resonances through specific shapes or additional damping materials.

Thermal Conductivity:
Brass: Lower thermal conductivity compared to aluminum, which might mean less change in platter performance with temperature variations.
Aluminum: High thermal conductivity. This could lead to quicker adjustments to room temperature changes, potentially affecting the playback if the room temperature fluctuates significantly.

Durability and Maintenance:
Brass: Resistant to corrosion but can tarnish over time. Cleaning might be required to maintain aesthetics, but this doesn't affect performance much.
Aluminum: Can oxidize, but anodizing or other surface treatments can prevent this. If left untreated, it might require more maintenance.

Aesthetic and Cost:
Brass: Often seen as more luxurious or vintage, brass platters can add a unique aesthetic to turntables. They are generally more expensive due to the cost of material and machining.
Aluminum: More common in modern turntable designs, offering a sleek, contemporary look. Typically less expensive than brass but can be just as effective with proper engineering.

Sound Quality:
The impact on sound quality from the choice of material is complex and subjective. It depends on the entire system, including the motor, bearing, belt/pulley, and even the tonearm and cartridge.
Brass might add a certain richness or warmth to the sound, while
Aluminum, with proper engineering, can offer a detailed, clear sound with less coloration if resonance is well-managed.

Conclusion:
If you're looking for stability and a potentially warmer sound, brass could be preferable, but it comes with a higher cost.
Aluminum, with modern design techniques, can achieve excellent results with less mass, potentially offering better control over resonances if designed with this in mind.

Ultimately, the choice might come down to budget, the aesthetic you prefer, and whether you prioritize the potential sound characteristics of one material over the other. Listening tests with both materials in the same setup would be the best way to decide if you have the opportunity.
 
Ghost said:
He countered with a reasonable offer and I would be getting a Technics 1200G with a Hana ML with *supposedly* less than 50 hours on it for less than the price of a new 1200 with no cart.

My Hana SL is probs around the 800 - 1000 hour mark and would need a replacement in the next year.

This is feeling more and more like the opportunity for me.
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Pull that trigger and enjoy it!
 
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