Equipment Recommendations - The Home For New System and Upgrade Advice

For the record I second NAD in that room. And the new units have Dirac room correction which would probably do a great job in that small space.

Alright so I don't remember who on here runs Fortes, or had Fortes but question for y'all... Do you or did you ever run them with a solid state amp? Or did y'all have tubes the whole time? @kvetcha @Slimwhit33

I've read (and been told) that horns do better with tubes. Which makes sense, but on the other hand Darkos main system is literally Forte IVs and the Lyngdorf 3400... (At times)... So it can't be THAT bad...
I happily ran them with tubes for about a year, but have been running them solid state for a few months now. The IVs especially sound great either way. Tubes are a little more euphonic, but solid state drives the bass with more authority. For the genres you prefer I wager you’d be very happy with solid state.
 
Absolutely. But I have no experience listening to them on a high powered Class A/B. I did use my Heresy III’s initially with a Yamaha Class AB 100wpc, then a PrimaLuna Integrated, then the Luxman. Each step was a significant improvement to my ears.
I'm not buying that "low-powered" Class A Luxman story anymore! They are wolves in cashmere duds.
 
For the record I second NAD in that room. And the new units have Dirac room correction which would probably do a great job in that small space.

Alright so I don't remember who on here runs Fortes, or had Fortes but question for y'all... Do you or did you ever run them with a solid state amp? Or did y'all have tubes the whole time? @kvetcha @Slimwhit33

I've read (and been told) that horns do better with tubes. Which makes sense, but on the other hand Darkos main system is literally Forte IVs and the Lyngdorf 3400... (At times)... So it can't be THAT bad...

If your current AVR is up-to-date enough for the features you want (HMDI standard, HDR, audio codecs, etc.), then there is little point to replacing the entire thing. Especially, if it's two channel playback where the power draw really ramps up. Assuming the AVR has preouts, you could just add a two channel power amp for your front left and right and save yourself some money. However, this won't help with the PITA that is running wires to your surrounds, as it won't get you that bluetooth connectivity for rears. Is that something they have on newer AVRs?

If you want to do a full AVR refersh, I'd look to Anthem first for good amplification power and excellent room correction. If not them, I'd go higher end Yamaha.

If I were to go with a two channel power amp, what brands should I be looking for and what would the price range be for one that does solid work?
 
Thoughts on Transrotor Dark Star Silver Shadow vs Bellini? The Silver Shadow is a little less expensive, better looking to me, and less likely to get scratched. The Bellini has a better bearing design, my wife likes the looks better, and my local recommends. Both are constrained to 9” tone arms. I’m thinking an Audiomods Series VI.

Dark Star Silver Shadow

IMG_3015.jpeg

Bellini

IMG_3016.jpeg
 
Thoughts on Transrotor Dark Star Silver Shadow vs Bellini? The Silver Shadow is a little less expensive, better looking to me, and less likely to get scratched. The Bellini has a better bearing design, my wife likes the looks better, and my local recommends. Both are constrained to 9” tone arms. I’m thinking an Audiomods Series VI.

Dark Star Silver Shadow

View attachment 230479

Bellini

View attachment 230480
I know nothing about these but I would go Dark Star purely on looks.
 
This will be horribly boring to those of you familiar with home theatre, an area I have absolutely never explored, so my apologies in advance.

My wife mentioned she wanted a Blu Ray player for the living room, as we're gravitating back to some physical media in TV-land with where costs are going on streaming services, as I imagine many folks are. Settled on the Sony X700 - which offers a lot at the price point. I figured hey, this would be a great way to start scratching my SACD itch as well.

I wanted to integrate the audio with my 2-channel system for CD/SACD playback, as well as occasionally for fun on some movies or docs or whatever. I currently had a Bluesound Node 2i. Figuring I could get a SPDIF coaxial to 1/8" (digital) cable, I learned the Node 2i only accepts optical signal through that input, so I'd need to find another solution. Upon Googling I also learned that SACD output can only go through HDMI due to copy protection, I figured the easiest way was just to upgrade to the Node N130 from a few years ago. The Sony has HDMI audio only out, but I then learned that the HDMI input on the Node has to be through ARC. At this point I'm getting a masterclass on all of this through trial and error. Haha.

To prevent this long story getting longer - cut to it, I've got playback working to the Node! One real fascination here are the folks who insist physical CDs sound bertter than streaming hi res, and upon testing several albums available in hi res with CD/Spotify/Qobuz, my findings are exactly what I would've thought - CD sounding noticeably better than Spotify, and hi res sounding better than CD, but that gap being narrower than lossy to redbook. I think what folks are liking is the sound of their actual higher-end CD player, rather than the media itself.

Next up will be to see what an SACD sounds like at 192 PCM.
 
This will be horribly boring to those of you familiar with home theatre, an area I have absolutely never explored, so my apologies in advance.

My wife mentioned she wanted a Blu Ray player for the living room, as we're gravitating back to some physical media in TV-land with where costs are going on streaming services, as I imagine many folks are. Settled on the Sony X700 - which offers a lot at the price point. I figured hey, this would be a great way to start scratching my SACD itch as well.

I wanted to integrate the audio with my 2-channel system for CD/SACD playback, as well as occasionally for fun on some movies or docs or whatever. I currently had a Bluesound Node 2i. Figuring I could get a SPDIF coaxial to 1/8" (digital) cable, I learned the Node 2i only accepts optical signal through that input, so I'd need to find another solution. Upon Googling I also learned that SACD output can only go through HDMI due to copy protection, I figured the easiest way was just to upgrade to the Node N130 from a few years ago. The Sony has HDMI audio only out, but I then learned that the HDMI input on the Node has to be through ARC. At this point I'm getting a masterclass on all of this through trial and error. Haha.

To prevent this long story getting longer - cut to it, I've got playback working to the Node! One real fascination here are the folks who insist physical CDs sound bertter than streaming hi res, and upon testing several albums available in hi res with CD/Spotify/Qobuz, my findings are exactly what I would've thought - CD sounding noticeably better than Spotify, and hi res sounding better than CD, but that gap being narrower than lossy to redbook. I think what folks are liking is the sound of their actual higher-end CD player, rather than the media itself.

Next up will be to see what an SACD sounds like at 192 PCM.
Totally agree. The player makes such a difference. I got my father a Arcam SACD player and some nice little Mission standmount speakers to go with his NAD 316 and the sound that thing puts out for just standard CDs is astonishing. Made me realize that I've never really had a good CD player in my life, and what a difference it makes.
 
Totally agree. The player makes such a difference. I got my father a Arcam SACD player and some nice little Mission standmount speakers to go with his NAD 316 and the sound that thing puts out for just standard CDs is astonishing. Made me realize that I've never really had a good CD player in my life, and what a difference it makes.

Yeah my Jays Audio is rebook cd only but man the quality is way better than SACDs on my old Sony player and it was no slouch.
 
If I were to go with a two channel power amp, what brands should I be looking for and what would the price range be for one that does solid work?
I'd say you are probably looking at $1-2k, unless you score an exceptional open box, demo, or used deal.

The Emotiva BasX A2 is still the budget king. It has active cooling, though, which could be irritating depending on your sensitivity to such things.

For a little more money, I'd look at the Parasound NC 2125V2 or the Parasound NC 2250V2, depending on how much power your KEFs need. Parasound has an excelelnt reputation, you'll be able to go audition them, and you'll get dealer support, which is always nice.

If you don't mind Class D amps, the NAD C268 might be worth a look.

However, if you have the time to be patient, going used will probably net you a better amp for the same money. Just stick to reputaable brands and wait for the right unit at the right price to pop up. For example, this Bryston 4BSST is going for about the same money as the Parasound NC 2250V2. This is the kind of amp I'm looking for to be my end-game. @Angsty can probably provide you with an idea of that specific unit's sonic prowess. Regardless, keep an eye on the used gear and you'll probably do quite well at whatever you set your budget at.

Also, if you have a good relationship with some dealers, let them know you're in the market for a two channel amp. They might be happy to give you dibs on any trade-ins that meet your needs.
 
Thoughts on Transrotor Dark Star Silver Shadow vs Bellini? The Silver Shadow is a little less expensive, better looking to me, and less likely to get scratched. The Bellini has a better bearing design, my wife likes the looks better, and my local recommends. Both are constrained to 9” tone arms. I’m thinking an Audiomods Series VI.

Dark Star Silver Shadow

View attachment 230479

Bellini

View attachment 230480
Between those two, I think you have to get the better bearing and power supply in the Bellini. But if you'd like the ability to get a 12-inch tonearm, have you considered the Fat Bob? You can get up to two 9 or 12-inch armbases. Now, you lose the M1 power supply and step down to the Studio compared to the Bellini, however, you lose the acryllic body and its associated maitenance worries and you gain a 12 kg platter versus the Bellini's 9 kg. The Fat Bob still comes standard with the TMD. You could always upgrade to the M1 power supply on order to get that package discount. In Canada, at least, the Fat Bob is just a bit more than the Dark Star Silver Shadow. Not sure where the Bellini prices in, as it's not on the Translator Canada site, but from your post it sounds more expensive at standard, and I assume US pricing is fairly relative.

Transrotor Fat Bob
 
Between those two, I think you have to get the better bearing and power supply in the Bellini. But if you'd like the ability to get a 12-inch tonearm, have you considered the Fat Bob? You can get up to two 9 or 12-inch armbases. Now, you lose the M1 power supply and step down to the Studio compared to the Bellini, however, you lose the acryllic body and its associated maitenance worries and you gain a 12 kg platter versus the Bellini's 9 kg. The Fat Bob still comes standard with the TMD. You could always upgrade to the M1 power supply on order to get that package discount. In Canada, at least, the Fat Bob is just a bit more than the Dark Star Silver Shadow. Not sure where the Bellini prices in, as it's not on the Translator Canada site, but from your post it sounds more expensive at standard, and I assume US pricing is fairly relative.

Transrotor Fat Bob
Thanks. In the states it’s a la carte ordering, so I’d be getting the same power supply (M-1 Ref) with any of them, unless I went with a multi-motor (I’m not). I asked my dealer about the Fat Bob and he preferred the Dark Star SS to it, partly due to the POM chassis, and the Bellini to either. The price difference is around $800 with the Bellini more dear.
 
For example, this Bryston 4BSST is going for about the same money as the Parasound NC 2250V2. This is the kind of amp I'm looking for to be my end-game. @Angsty can probably provide you with an idea of that specific unit's sonic prowess.
Angsty here! I love my 4B ST. Very clean, very powerful, deep low end capability. Built like a tank and will last past the 20-year warranty. Bryston service is very responsive.

But, if I’m telling the whole truth, my resto-modded NAD C272 sounds indistinguishable. I had the capacitors upgraded and a few other component tweaks and upgrades. I’ve run the Bryston and the NAD side by side and could not tell which one was running. The NAD also has prodigious output that never bottomed out with my speakers.

I rather have the build quality and XLR connections of the Bryston, though.
 
Thanks. In the states it’s a la carte ordering, so I’d be getting the same power supply (M-1 Ref) with any of them, unless I went with a multi-motor (I’m not). I asked my dealer about the Fat Bob and he preferred the Dark Star SS to it, partly due to the POM chassis, and the Bellini to either. The price difference is around $800 with the Bellini more dear.
I know my dealer just loves Transrotor on the whole, so whatever you pick, it'll likely sound fantastic. I'm surprised your dealer ranks the Fat Bob so low. I love the expansive sound of a high mas turntable, but that is me. I imagine the Dark Star, being all POM and lighter, will probably have a snappier sound signature albeit smaller in scale. Maybe the Bellini gives a bit of both: higher agility from the lighter acrylic plinth but with some breadth and heft from the 9kg aluminum platter. Have you been able to demo any of the models in question?
 
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