MoFi UltraDeck / StudioDeck Owners and those interested

[JamieLang]

MOFI sent replacement legs out today.

Moral to this story--it's always good to spontaneously check with a bubble level! Ha. I was literally just answering someone's question "what's that thing for?" ...and I put it on the platter to show them--only it wasn't level...leads to my releveling the table--wondering what had changed...leading to closer inspection. During warranty period!

 

[Static Shock]

MOFI sent replacement legs out today.

Moral to this story--it's always good to spontaneously check with a bubble level! Ha. I was literally just answering someone's question "what's that thing for?" ...and I put it on the platter to show them--only it wasn't level...leads to my releveling the table--wondering what had changed...leading to closer inspection. During warranty period!

A little bit of random luck also helps.

 

[spydrwebb44]

As mentioned recently in a different thread, my initial installation hiccups were overcome and the culprit was packaging composite that got lodged into the DIN port, not allowing the cord to seat properly. While it was a bit inconvenient to troubleshoot, it was not faulty manufacturing, nor was it ignored or glossed over in any way. MoFi concluded it was an anomaly and I've since been experiencing what can easily be described as my smoothest/quietest operation TT to date.

Hugely grateful to Josh at MoFi for the follow through and due diligence.

 

[renpar61]

I have the same thing, front feet seem to be spring loaded, while back feet seem set, I always thought it was "by design" to support the weight of the open lid... so it's not?

BTW, I finally heard back (after 6+ weeks) from MoFi regarding my issues, they asked for "in excess of $600" plus shipping back and forth to check and maybe recap the unit. Since it's a very small issue I respectfully declined, not worth the cost.
I also asked to buy a new anti skate a week ago, we'll see...

Has anyone replaced the cord on their anti-skate? Mine is worn. I'm afraid to mess up between length and getting the o-ring to fit.

 

[Portland Sheriff]

As mentioned recently in a different thread, my initial installation hiccups were overcome and the culprit was packaging composite that got lodged into the DIN port, not allowing the cord to seat properly. While it was a bit inconvenient to troubleshoot, it was not faulty manufacturing, nor was it ignored or glossed over in any way. MoFi concluded it was an anomaly and I've since been experiencing what can easily be described as my smoothest/quietest operation TT to date.

Hugely grateful to Josh at MoFi for the follow through and due diligence.

glad you worked this out and that your experience was better than mine with the Masterdeck

I didn't work with someone named Josh, so maybe they worked out some of their internal issues with someone more attentive/competent/professional/whatever.

 

[Portland Sheriff]

I have a new, unused belt for UD/SD/Masterdeck if anyone needs one. I'll ship it to you for $24 (20% off retail). DM me if interested.

 

[spydrwebb44]

glad you worked this out and that your experience was better than mine with the Masterdeck

I didn't work with someone named Josh, so maybe they worked out some of their internal issues with someone more attentive/competent/professional/whatever.

Me, too. Demand appears to be greater than they anticipated, which is a good thing. It does seem as if they needed to work out a few R&D kinks. That, too, is perfectly normal and acceptable.

 

[Static Shock]

I have the same thing, front feet seem to be spring loaded, while back feet seem set, I always thought it was "by design" to support the weight of the open lid... so it's not?

BTW, I finally heard back (after 6+ weeks) from MoFi regarding my issues, they asked for "in excess of $600" plus shipping back and forth to check and maybe recap the unit. Since it's a very small issue I respectfully declined, not worth the cost.
I also asked to buy a new anti skate a week ago, we'll see...

Has anyone replaced the cord on their anti-skate? Mine is worn. I'm afraid to mess up between length and getting the o-ring to fit.

Had problems with antskate cord on my first MOFI TT. Replacing the cord is not all that difficult . My replacements from MOFI also included the cord and weight so I assume they are sold as a unit

 

[kvetcha]

I have the same thing, front feet seem to be spring loaded, while back feet seem set, I always thought it was "by design" to support the weight of the open lid... so it's not?

BTW, I finally heard back (after 6+ weeks) from MoFi regarding my issues, they asked for "in excess of $600" plus shipping back and forth to check and maybe recap the unit. Since it's a very small issue I respectfully declined, not worth the cost.
I also asked to buy a new anti skate a week ago, we'll see...

Has anyone replaced the cord on their anti-skate? Mine is worn. I'm afraid to mess up between length and getting the o-ring to fit.

I legitimately always thought that was by design. Table was always level for me so I never second guessed it.

 

[MacDonals]

Since getting my new cartridge, I’ve become slightly obsessed with proper alignment. I will say that right now, I like the sound. I’m getting very low surface noise, clear bass, and no inner groove sibilance, so I have a level of confidence that it’s well-aligned.

But it’s hard to get confirmation that I’ve aligned it properly. Here’s what I’ve done:

• Aligned the cartridge using the MoFi GeoDisc
• Confirmed Baerwald alignment with a (newly purchased, I told you I’ve been obsessed) Dr. Feickert’s Protractor
• Ensured levelness of table and head using spirit levels
• Looked at the needle with a USB microscope. I don’t have a fancy one, so it didn’t show me much. I don’t think I will buy one of those Dino-Lites to measure the SRA…
• Set proper VTF (1.75 for Nagaoka MP-200) with scale
• Set anti-skate at 2nd notch
• Utilized a VTA gauge to set the proper tonearm height to be level and confirmed needle straightness

I have a few questions:

1. Is there anything I should listen for to see if things are off?
2. On a VTA gauge, should the height be at 20? Is that generally the line above the number 20?

 

[Ghost]

Since getting my new cartridge, I’ve become slightly obsessed with proper alignment. I will say that right now, I like the sound. I’m getting very low surface noise, clear bass, and no inner groove sibilance, so I have a level of confidence that it’s well-aligned.

But it’s hard to get confirmation that I’ve aligned it properly. Here’s what I’ve done:

• Aligned the cartridge using the MoFi GeoDisc
• Confirmed Baerwald alignment with a (newly purchased, I told you I’ve been obsessed) Dr. Feickert’s Protractor
• Ensured levelness of table and head using spirit levels
• Looked at the needle with a USB microscope. I don’t have a fancy one, so it didn’t show me much. I don’t think I will buy one of those Dino-Lites to measure the SRA…
• Set proper VTF (1.75 for Nagaoka MP-200) with scale
• Set anti-skate at 2nd notch
• Utilized a VTA gauge to set the proper tonearm height to be level and confirmed needle straightness

I have a few questions:

1. Is there anything I should listen for to see if things are off?
2. On a VTA gauge, should the height be at 20? Is that generally the line above the number 20?

In my experience, you'd know if something is off, think you're just getting lost in the weeds! Time to sit back and spin some records and enjoy!

 

[Portland Sheriff]

Since getting my new cartridge, I’ve become slightly obsessed with proper alignment. I will say that right now, I like the sound. I’m getting very low surface noise, clear bass, and no inner groove sibilance, so I have a level of confidence that it’s well-aligned.

But it’s hard to get confirmation that I’ve aligned it properly. Here’s what I’ve done:

• Aligned the cartridge using the MoFi GeoDisc
• Confirmed Baerwald alignment with a (newly purchased, I told you I’ve been obsessed) Dr. Feickert’s Protractor
• Ensured levelness of table and head using spirit levels
• Looked at the needle with a USB microscope. I don’t have a fancy one, so it didn’t show me much. I don’t think I will buy one of those Dino-Lites to measure the SRA…
• Set proper VTF (1.75 for Nagaoka MP-200) with scale
• Set anti-skate at 2nd notch
• Utilized a VTA gauge to set the proper tonearm height to be level and confirmed needle straightness

I have a few questions:

1. Is there anything I should listen for to see if things are off?
2. On a VTA gauge, should the height be at 20? Is that generally the line above the number 20?

How obsessed do you want to get? If you really want to understand it (and feed the obsession), I’d watch this series of videos from Wally Analog on the 7 optimization alignment targets. It’s an enlightening series.

I enjoy getting into the weeds on this stuff, so I got obsessed. It’s fascinating to me. But I agree w/ @Ghost that, if this is not where you want to be/go, just enjoy what you are already enjoying and don’t sweat it. It’s very much in the weeds.

 

[dansomeone]

I have a few questions:

1. Is there anything I should listen for to see if things are off?
2. On a VTA gauge, should the height be at 20? Is that generally the line above the number 20?

2. Doesn't the tonearm just need to be level? By that I mean those numbers on the gauge aren't settings. They're there to help your eyes read across the fine gauge, i.e. start with a number, end with the same number. The actual number just depends on the height of the cartridge. If a line on the gauge runs level with the line on the side of the Mofi tonearm, you're set.

 

[MacDonals]

2. Doesn't the tonearm just need to be level? By that I mean those numbers on the gauge aren't settings. They're there to help your eyes read across the fine gauge, i.e. start with a number, end with the same number. The actual number just depends on the height of the cartridge. If a line on the gauge runs level with the line on the side of the Mofi tonearm, you're set.

I have heard this as well. If you have the needle down on a record, and the tonearm is level, then it's set.

This is where blank Side D records come in handy...

 

[Angsty]

I have heard this as well. If you have the needle down on a record, and the tonearm is level, then it's set.

This is where blank Side D records come in handy...

Mostly true. People with USB microscopes may argue that setting SRA with a microscope is superior. I don’t have time for that tinker; I look to get a level tonearm.

 

[Jbraswell]

Since different tonearms can have curvature, bends etc, I always focus on the top of the cart being level with the acrylic block line.

 

[AnthonyI]

Since different tonearms can have curvature, bends etc, I always focus on the top of the cart being level with the acrylic block line.

Same

 

[Angsty]

Since different tonearms can have curvature, bends etc, I always focus on the top of the cart being level with the acrylic block line.

Agree. I do usually align with the headshell versus the tonearm itself.

 

[Jbraswell]

Agree. I do usually align with the headshell versus the tonearm itself.

I found the head shell can lean on my Technics.
Part of the con with the removable HS connection.
Top of the cart gets the cantilever more correct for VTA.

 

[Static Shock]

Need a little advice . I was looking for a basic headphone amp so I can again use my very old Yamaha Orthodynamic HP-1 headphones .

At this point I have no headphone connection .The Conrad Johnson repair outlet in Montreal Canada said that I can connect a headphone amp to my CJ preamp through the tape output . If I play a cd or record , I select it as a source and the signal will be automatically sent to the tape output thus to the headphone amp /headphones . If I do not turn on the power amp , the volume control on the headphone amp controls volume on the headphone.

I was looking at the Monolith Liquid Spark Headphone Amplifier , Atom AMP 2 or iFi Audio ZEN Air Can High-Resolution Headphone Amplifier. Just wondering if anyone has experience with these or similar headphone amps . Since I already have a DAC , don't need another one .