MoFi UltraDeck / StudioDeck Owners and those interested

An onzow (I use one, but they are somewhat controversial) or blue tac (a fav around here) may help if it is gunk. People use a magic eraser, but I found that to build static and leave a residue over time.
I also find that at times a dry brush is not enough . Have used the LP stylus cleaner from MOFI when required , which is not very often , and have also used blue tac and magic eraser and all work . From Amazon I got a 40x all metal magnifier with a small light built in and it allows me to see the tip , but a 60x would be better if available . Below is just one example .

KINGMAS 40x 25mm Jeweller Magnifier Pocket Folding Magnifying Jewelry Eye Loupe with LED Light Illuminated (LED Currency Detecting/Jewlers Identifying Type Lupe)​


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Thanks for pointing out the Phono Pre limitations of the MP7B.

This is a journey. I’ll learn as I go. I think I’ll go with the SH vs the SL. Now the question is should I go with MKI vs MKIII. I have some credits at TMR and could get $150 off the price of the MKII (or MKI).

Any thoughts on the new Hana S line?
The only thing I can add is that when it comes time to replace my SL stylus (not far off), I will not buy the Mk II - I will retip with VAS. I have re-tipped with them on this cartridge once already and I have been very happy with the result.
 
The only thing I can add is that when it comes time to replace my SL stylus (not far off), I will not buy the Mk II - I will retip with VAS. I have re-tipped with them on this cartridge once already and I have been very happy with the result.
I had been planning to go with VAS for my SAE, but have been leaning Groovetickler of late just because I had an enjoyable conversation with the guy on Instagram.
 
I also find that at times a dry brush is not enough . Have used the LP stylus cleaner from MOFI when required , which is not very often , and have also used blue tac and magic eraser and all work . From Amazon I got a 40x all metal magnifier with a small light built in and it allows me to see the tip , but a 60x would be better if available . Below is just one example .

KINGMAS 40x 25mm Jeweller Magnifier Pocket Folding Magnifying Jewelry Eye Loupe with LED Light Illuminated (LED Currency Detecting/Jewlers Identifying Type Lupe)​


Visit the KINGMAS Store

4.4 4.4 out of 5 stars (1.1K)

Amazon'sChoice



400+ bought in past month
Cool. I just ordered one that does 30x and 60x.
 
Cool. I just ordered one that does 30x and 60x.
When you get it let us know how it works . I had looked at ordering the 30x and 60 x originally but was concerned with the ability to see with the 60 x based on some reviews . In the end i got the 40 x as a compromise , while it lets me see if the stylus is clean or dirty extra power would have been nice . The focus depth is very narrow so it takes some getting use to .
 
I also have good experience with "non chatty" Steve from VAS :ROFLMAO:, he does great work!
Can I ask what kind of diamond and cantilever you went with, when you re-tipped the SL? Any fancy boron or ceramic? Did you hear improvement over stock?
Steve recommended that I replace with a part that was close to the original but readily available to him - aluminum cantilever with a line contact stylus (versus a Shibata). His statement was that the fine line was geometrically and sonically very similar to the Shibata and I also found that to be the case. A replacement with a true Shibata was likely possible but may have been at a higher cost and a longer delivery timeline. I took his advice and I'm happy with the outcome.
 
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$425 for retipping the original aluminum cantilever with a new Shibata III.
$475 for a new boron cantilever w/Gyger FG 2 Line Contact
$575 for boron with a Gyger S.

He can also do Ruby with a Gyger S but I didn't ask the price.
For reference, my Hana SL retip with VAS was $235 in August 2020. It took about two weeks to get it back.
 
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I do have experience comparing the SL to the ML. For me, the difference was very much dependent on the table. I used the ML on three different tables and found that it sounded notably better only on one of them. The SL Mk 1 has been my go-to for several years now.

If I were in a replacement situation like yours, I’d probably buy a SH Mk 1 on the clearance sale. The Darlington does have a LOMC setting, but you’d likely get better overall performance with the high output cartridge. I did not seek much advice on choosing a SL versus the SH, but a high-output MC can be a better route unless you want to slide down the phono/SUT/SU upgrade rabbit hole.

I think I bought one of your Hana’s? Do t remember which one honestly. Liked it a lot though.
 
I also find that at times a dry brush is not enough . Have used the LP stylus cleaner from MOFI when required , which is not very often , and have also used blue tac and magic eraser and all work . From Amazon I got a 40x all metal magnifier with a small light built in and it allows me to see the tip , but a 60x would be better if available . Below is just one example .

KINGMAS 40x 25mm Jeweller Magnifier Pocket Folding Magnifying Jewelry Eye Loupe with LED Light Illuminated (LED Currency Detecting/Jewlers Identifying Type Lupe)​


Visit the KINGMAS Store

4.4 4.4 out of 5 stars (1.1K)

Amazon'sChoice



400+ bought in past month
I’m also considering an upgrade my cheap reading magnifier to a jeweler’s loupe for better viewing of the stylus condition. Here’s the guidance from the International Gemologist Society (IGS):

“For gemologists, the 10X loupe (with ten-power magnification) is the standard for hand-held gem identification. Although you'll find more powerful loupes, the depth of field (the area that's in focus) is so small above 10X that they're hard to use. Instead, use a microscope when you need higher magnification. With lower-powered magnification, you just can't see as much detail.”

They also recommend a triplet lens, but a Coddington is likely the second best for simply inspecting stylus condition. A higher powered LED microscope is probably better for SRA/VTA determination.
 
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