Equipment Recommendations - The Home For New System and Upgrade Advice

Haimez40 said:
Do you have albums in the doors too? Was curious if that worked with the kallax door on them? I'm assuming they only take up the sides making a little less room but they would still fit height wise? I'm going to Ikea tonight I think.
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No those doors belong to my wife...

Back when my record collet was small enough and we (she) thought it would never need more than 4 cubes we installed the doors to keep some of her stuff in it.

In the mean time I've now added another 4x4 kallax on the other side of the room where I've been assigned 2 more cubes for records and we've joked again about how that should be "more than enough".

I'm not home this week but I can try putting a record in there and let you know if it fits if you're interested. Mind you that's not the kallax they sell now. Its the older version..Expedit I believe and the dimensions are very subtly different. I can't fit my In Rainbows box in these cubes for example but I can in a Kallax.
 
uvwxVinyl said:
Hey so on that note, any recommendations? I know Blue Jeans is the go to but with shipping (from the UK site) it works out to 75 pounds for 1m which I think is wayyy over priced for my system. 45 pounds is shipping + duty alone only which i think is ridiculous for a 1m cable.

If there's anything around that would make a difference for 30€ I would go for it at the upper end, otherwise I would just pick something standard like this up:
Amazon product ASIN B00FQK311O
I'm assuming the length shouldn't make a massive impact on sound, for example if I get 2m instead of 1m. I would just like to get a longer cable this time so it's forward compatible in case I move stuff around in the future.
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QED Profile cable is well reviewed by what Hifi and costs 20€ for 1m so I think I'll pick that up!
 
brownsugah said:
One quick question.. does biwiring really make a difference in sound/clarity? The Wharfdales have 4 speaker ports that allow for it.
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Definitely preference in my opinion. That said I recently replaced the bars on my B&W 606 with Zu Ibis Speaker Jumpers and it was a noticeable upgrade in my opinion. If you wanted to experiment use regular speaker wire and see what you think.
So simple breakdown is normal speaker wire 2 on each side from amp to speakers and then remove bars do short run between both connections on back.
My personal setup is Banana on cable run and spades on jumpers.
 
With more and more warps coming with new vinyl. Anyone have a clamp recommendation for the Fluance RT-85?
 
brownsugah said:
One quick question.. does biwiring really make a difference in sound/clarity? The Wharfdales have 4 speaker ports that allow for it.
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Some people swear by it. I see value in bypassing stock jumpers, but I'd personally rather invest in matching jumpers than biwire cables. Just feels like more options down the line.

My current speakers actually use a single set of connectors, and it makes me wonder why that isn't more common.
 
bdm105 said:
With more and more warps coming with new vinyl. Anyone have a clamp recommendation for the Fluance RT-85?
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In my experience, a weight is only providing minimal support to warped albums. It can help some, but don't expect too much. A warp is a warp.

Having said that, I've been enjoying this Star Sound weight, using it more often than my Mofi one.

Product Page | AudioThesis

www.audiothesis.com www.audiothesis.com
 
Haimez40 said:
Definitely preference in my opinion. That said I recently replaced the bars on my B&W 606 with Zu Ibis Speaker Jumpers and it was a noticeable upgrade in my opinion. If you wanted to experiment use regular speaker wire and see what you think.
So simple breakdown is normal speaker wire 2 on each side from amp to speakers and then remove bars do short run between both connections on back.
My personal setup is Banana on cable run and spades on jumpers.
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I have Amazon speaker wire that I bought some years ago. Would a short run of that be ok between both connectors? I have a Blue Jeans cable connected from my speakers to my amp.
 
I would try it. It wont hurt anything and you at least will see what you might prefer.
The ZU IBIS ones I got made a noticeable difference for me. Basically short run of their older less shielded speaker wires with whatever termination you want. I've read a lot of people using generic speaker wire and just staying with it.
 
Haimez40 said:
I would try it. It wont hurt anything and you at least will see what you might prefer.
The ZU IBIS ones I got made a noticeable difference for me. Basically short run of their older less shielded speaker wires with whatever termination you want. I've read a lot of people using generic speaker wire and just staying with it.
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I have a pair of Ibis coming my way soon! From an eBay auction the other night
 
Haimez40 said:
I would try it. It wont hurt anything and you at least will see what you might prefer.
The ZU IBIS ones I got made a noticeable difference for me. Basically short run of their older less shielded speaker wires with whatever termination you want. I've read a lot of people using generic speaker wire and just staying with it.
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I want to be sure I’m understanding this. I’m attaching a photo of my current connections. You’re talking about replacing the short wires running (vertically) between the two positive and two negative inputs? I assume the idea is a higher quality connection will improve sound?
F45536B9-A895-42D3-A742-3D8568DC1318.jpeg
 
Russ I said:
I want to be sure I’m understanding this. I’m attaching a photo of my current connections. You’re talking about replacing the short wires running (vertically) between the two positive and two negative inputs? I assume the idea is a higher quality connection will improve sound?
View attachment 83426
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That's it! The idea is that one pair of terminals (maybe the top) powers your tweeter, and the other pair powers the woofer. Don't quote me on which is which. That was just a wild guess.

They give you separate terminals so you can run separate wires to your amplifier (biwire) or even run separate amplifiers (biamp). If you don't want to bother with all that, you can still upgrade the jumpers.
 
Yes that is it. Although I have both connected to the top terminals. I don't see why it would cause any issue in theory since the wires are tying them together anyways. I only chose the top terminals because my actual manual said too but I have read many people online say no difference.

Edit: The original scenario included those thick bars that the speakers came with and replacing those with speaker wire.
 
Equipment nerds (respectfully) -

What do you know about Polk SDA 2’s? I can acquire a pair in great condition for $100. Would need to invest in a nice amp.

Worth it? Or better directions to go?

I'm not an audiophile.. so not looking to wormhole through a hundred options. Thanks for your advice! :)

@AnthonyI
 
scotthilk said:
Equipment nerds (respectfully) -

What do you know about Polk SDA 2’s? I can acquire a pair in great condition for $100. Would need to invest in a nice amp.

Worth it? Or better directions to go?

I'm not an audiophile.. so not looking to wormhole through a hundred options. Thanks for your advice! :)

@AnthonyI
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For $100 you can’t go wrong. Pay attention to the wiring- they are wired differently from conventional speakers.
 
Joe Mac said:
Oh I backed the Kickstarter ultrasonic too. Was in a good place price wise. It hit its target and will hopefully get the two stretch goals as well for the 7” and 10” adaptors. Looking forward to seeing how it comes to fruition!
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For anyone still on the fence for this, they just met their first stretch goal. It will come with a 7 inch adapter.
Still 16 days to go so we have time to add the 10 inch adapter!
 
apholden said:
For anyone still on the fence for this, they just met their first stretch goal. It will come with a 7 inch adapter.
Still 16 days to go so we have time to add the 10 inch adapter!
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If the second stretch goal doesn’t get hit, and it’s looking high, the adapters are identical to the degritter ones so you could buy a 10” of theirs if needed immediately!
 
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