Equipment Recommendations - The Home For New System and Upgrade Advice

HiFi Guy said:
I definitely would not use a 14 watt per channel amp with those.

The Musishare amp would be a much safer bet. I’d only buy it from Amazon though for buyer protection. You can save some money buying from China directly, but I don’t think it’s worth the risk.
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Understood. I’ll give the Muzishare another look and check out what replacing the tube complement would add to the cost. For some reason, I recall it pushing the cost up toward that of a Fezz Audio Silver Luna Prestige, but I last looked into the Muzishare a ways back. Prices have probably changed.
 
ZiggsMBK said:
Understood. I’ll give the Muzishare another look and check out what replacing the tube complement would add to the cost. For some reason, I recall it pushing the cost up toward that of a Fezz Audio Silver Luna Prestige, but I last looked into the Muzishare a ways back. Prices have probably changed.
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Keep in mind you don’t have to replace the factory tubes immediately.
 
I've been having an issue with my speaker cables where they occasionally pop off the back of my receiver or become slightly loose and I lose sound from a speaker. As you can see in the image below, I am just wrapping them around the screw that threads into the post. I'm thinking of upgrading to better cables (Amazon Basics currently) with the goal of also fixing this loose connection issue by using something that connects better. I have the following questions:

1. Are spades the best bet here given my binding posts?
2. Is it hard to terminate cables myself? Do I need any special tools? I'm slightly unsure of buying something preterminated in case my receiver goes and I get something that has a different binding post. It seems like most things nowadays have the five way binding posts so that is likely not an issue.

20210521_104942.jpg
 
trickyseven said:
I've been having an issue with my speaker cables where they occasionally pop off the back of my receiver or become slightly loose and I lose sound from a speaker. As you can see in the image below, I am just wrapping them around the screw that threads into the post. I'm thinking of upgrading to better cables (Amazon Basics currently) with the goal of also fixing this loose connection issue by using something that connects better. I have the following questions:

1. Are spades the best bet here given my binding posts?
2. Is it hard to terminate cables myself? Do I need any special tools? I'm slightly unsure of buying something preterminated in case my receiver goes and I get something that has a different binding post. It seems like most things nowadays have the five way binding posts so that is likely not an issue.

View attachment 100115
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You don't need a special tool, but I would recommend a wire/stripper tool because then you can strip off the plastic easily for the gauge of wire you have and then snip the wires cleanly too. You could get it at any hardware store easily. Looks like spades are the only option. It doesn't look like it has holes for banana plugs.

Sample:

www.homedepot.com

Klein Tools Electrical Wire Stripper / Cutter (10-18 AWG Solid) 11045 - The Home Depot

This compact, lightweight wire-stripping and cutting tool is designed to cut 10 - 18 AWG solid wire. The precision-ground stripping holes cleanly cut wire and aid in easy removal of insulation. A narrow
www.homedepot.com
 
Kris said:
You don't need a special tool, but I would recommend a wire/stripper tool because then you can strip off the plastic easily for the gauge of wire you have and then snip the wires cleanly too. You could get it at any hardware store easily. Looks like spades are the only option. It doesn't look like it has holes for banana plugs.

Sample:

www.homedepot.com

Klein Tools Electrical Wire Stripper / Cutter (10-18 AWG Solid) 11045 - The Home Depot

This compact, lightweight wire-stripping and cutting tool is designed to cut 10 - 18 AWG solid wire. The precision-ground stripping holes cleanly cut wire and aid in easy removal of insulation. A narrow
www.homedepot.com
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Thank you! I do have a wire stripper tool like that, just need to check the gauge. I will give it a go!
 
I still don’t have a Manley in my possession.

I’m not sure what to do next, but I’m looking for feedback. For now I’ll leave the retailer’s name out.

In early April I purchased a new Manley Absolute. I chose a known retailer that I had not before because they were the only one with the color I wanted.

On April 15th I was offered another color. It’s seemed these were hard to find at the time so I accepted.

I had the unit for 10-11 days when it started clicking and jumping and dropping in volume when used through power amp and speakers. I reported that to the retailer.

I was told Manley needed to test the unit then possibly swap.

I was headed out of town so I waited till the next week when I got back to confirm that it was not a setting on the amp.

I then sent it to Manley.

They got it signed for the unit the next week, but my first response that they had the unit was a week later. The email told me to wait to hear from them and not to reply.

I waited another week then contacted the retailer and asked for a refund or a new unit. I was told they would resolve it that day.

A day later I (today) I followed up and was told that they were still trying to replicate the issue. And would be in contact.

I responded clarifying that it was as a preamp and not in headphone usage that the issue occurred if that would help them, but that I did not want a repair but a new unit or a refund.

I also expressed my dismay that I was being treated this way in regards to a new unit of this value.


It’s may 25. I purchased in April 14th originally. My question is how Mad should I be at this point and with which party?

Also, what should I do and how long should I wait before taking a next step at this point
 
VMPKJ said:
I still don’t have a Manley in my possession.

I’m not sure what to do next, but I’m looking for feedback. For now I’ll leave the retailer’s name out.

In early April I purchased a new Manley Absolute. I chose a known retailer that I had not before because they were the only one with the color I wanted.

On April 15th I was offered another color. It’s seemed these were hard to find at the time so I accepted.

I had the unit for 10-11 days when it started clicking and jumping and dropping in volume when used through power amp and speakers. I reported that to the retailer.

I was told Manley needed to test the unit then possibly swap.

I was headed out of town so I waited till the next week when I got back to confirm that it was not a setting on the amp.

I then sent it to Manley.

They got it signed for the unit the next week, but my first response that they had the unit was a week later. The email told me to wait to hear from them and not to reply.

I waited another week then contacted the retailer and asked for a refund or a new unit. I was told they would resolve it that day.

A day later I (today) I followed up and was told that they were still trying to replicate the issue. And would be in contact.

I responded clarifying that it was as a preamp and not in headphone usage that the issue occurred if that would help them, but that I did not want a repair but a new unit or a refund.

I also expressed my dismay that I was being treated this way in regards to a new unit of this value.


It’s may 25. I purchased in April 14th originally. My question is how Mad should I be at this point and with which party?

Also, what should I do and how long should I wait before taking a next step at this point
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You have every right to be mad and you've been more than patient. If it were an open box or used unit I would say ride it out, but since it's new, I would push hard for a refund/replacement at this point. The "we can't replicate the issue" is a bit annoying, but from their side of it, it's hard to say what else is attached to it and how those components are working.

But I digress, refund or replacement without the "niceties" you may have been using this far.
 
AnthonyI said:
You have every right to be mad and you've been more than patient. If it were an open box or used unit I would say ride it out, but since it's new, I would push hard for a refund/replacement at this point. The "we can't replicate the issue" is a bit annoying, but from their side of it, it's hard to say what else is attached to it and how those components are working.

But I digress, refund or replacement without the "niceties" you may have been using this far.
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On the replication I can’t imagine it would make a huge issue. Plus they didn’t ask. Phono in and preamp out is pretty straight forward and would have zero impact on what the preamp is doing in this instance.
 
AnthonyI said:
You have every right to be mad and you've been more than patient. If it were an open box or used unit I would say ride it out, but since it's new, I would push hard for a refund/replacement at this point. The "we can't replicate the issue" is a bit annoying, but from their side of it, it's hard to say what else is attached to it and how those components are working.

But I digress, refund or replacement without the "niceties" you may have been using this far.
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I contacted Manley directly and they are taking care of it. Also, they finally DID track down the faulty issue with the unit.
 
kvetcha said:
Did they say what it was?

I'm glad Manley is making it right. Sounds like your dealer was dragging their feet.
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Per my last response I think it was Manley trying to hold out to the last minute on actually swapping it for a new one. Cutting past the dealer put more pressure on them to switch IMO. If I’m a retailer with product on hand I’m sending a new one and dealing with Manley myself. The new item is coming from Manley directly.

They said the issue was with the volume circuit. Not sure exactly what but It only happened on really long play sessions. Makes me think a bad resistor or cap in the attenuation circuit.
 
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VMPKJ said:
Per my last response I think it was Manley trying to hold out to the last minute on actually swapping it for a new one. Cutting past the dealer put more pressure on them to switch IMO. If I’m a retailer with product on hand I’m sending a new one and dealing with Manley myself. The new item is coming from Manley directly.

They said the issue was with the volume circuit. Not sure exactly what but It only happened on really long play sessions. Makes me think a bad resistor or cap in the attenuation circuit.
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I might have missed it, but who had the unit and was trying to recreate the issue? The vendor or Manley?
 
AnthonyI said:
Well, it took more than this issue should have, but I'm glad they're taking care of it for you. That being said, I still want an Absolute even though I have no need for one 🙃
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Am I supposed to do the thing where I tell you that you don't need it, or the thing where I convince you to go for it?
 
Crossposting from my status: I know the Fluance is recommended in here all the time.

Would anyone be interested in buying a Fluance RT85 at a discount? Thinking of selling my current walnut one to pick up their new wood finish which is far more fitting for my current interior design sensibilities. Not sure of the price, just gauging interest currently. If that interests anyone, we can direct message to explore the opportunity.
 
@HiFi Guy I stumbled across this thread on the Hoffman forums and I assume you are the same "HIFIGuy" (with the same avatar) on there. Unless you are an imposter of that HiFi Guy in which case you'd be a LoFiHiFiGuy. But I digress...

forums.stevehoffman.tv

Rogue Pharoah Integrated no longer pleasing.

I joined this forum because I've noticed a lot of Rogue Audio users here from reading other threads. I bought a used Rogue Audio Pharoah a couple...
forums.stevehoffman.tv forums.stevehoffman.tv

It seems you've had (or have) a Rogue Audio Pharaoh? I'm between this and a Prima Luna EVO 400 which, if my memory is correct (in fact, you signature may have it listed but I've turned those off), you use one?

A AV place in LV sells Rogue and I'm not too far out from Upscale Audio (~4 hours) to make it not worthwhile to go check it out - as well, I've spoken with the guys at Upscale about my interest in the Prima Luna.

But from someone who has had both....what are your thoughts I guess generally between the two? The price is not too far off between the two for that to be a deciding factor.

I like the idea of the extra power of the Rogue and the hybrid aspect (if I got the Prima it would be my first all tube amp; ironically, I've played guitar for almost 25 years and haven't had a SS guitar amp since the first little Fender practice amp my mom got me). But it has features that are a little much for me....won't make use of the processor loop or phono stage (off-board phono; although I've heard the phono on the Rogue if you care to compare it with high end externals).

I like the simplicity of inputs on the PL. No labels telling me what to plug in, just a bunch of inputs (well, the HT bypass but I believe the Rogue has that too and I need it with neither). Don't need an onboard DAC or phono; and I like that it has the sub option in mono or stereo. I've heard the UL operation gives it a more "modern", focused sound and the triode op that classic tube warmness.

Any comparison of the headphone amp between the two? I seldom use headphones and when I do I put a BT transmitter dongle and listen wireless while walking around the house. PL seems to think highly of their headphone amp.

I'll be using Martin Logan Motion 40s, which from my discussions with Upscale and PL blog posts I've seen, behave well with the Prima Luna; and I don't think they should have any issue with the Rogue. However, my next upgrade (say, 1-2 years) are a pair of Klipsch Forte (which should likewise play well with either amp?) or maybe the Wharfedale Lintons (your review piqued my interest).

I'm not looking to buy anything till February or so. I leave for some training with my work in late summer/early fall and that will take me away from home for ~6 months so I don't plan on getting new toys just to leave them sitting.

Anyway, any opinions on the two would be much appreciated. And, of course, anyone else who may have insight between the two amps....please, chime in. I just know @HiFi Guy has experience with both.

Cheers!
 
I've got a question about (relatively) inexpensive speakers and getting the best bang for my buck.

I'm planning to buy new speakers for my daughter, who will be moving into a house with a good-sized living room with wooden floors, and that's where I assume the stereo will be. I set her up with a system several years ago, and it definitely is time for some upgrades. The integrated amp she will be using is a Pioneer SA-950. It's a 37-year-old design that puts out 70 WPC and seems to be working well. For her turntable, I'll be sending a Technics SL-Q3, which also has been around for a while (released 1979-80), but has worked well for me whenever I've played around with it listening to records in my basement. For speakers, I'm looking for bookshelfs under $500, and of course the more under the better! Here are some I'm considering, and I'd be happy to hear what any of you have to say about these or other choices. I know there are lots of factors to consider when assessing speakers, but the goal here is a system that works and sounds pretty good, and many of the factors that matter are ones my daughter won't be thinking much about anyway.

In no particular order:

Klipsh RP600M - Steve Guttenberg gushes about these and says they are 'magic'
Wharfdale Diamond 12.1
Elac Debut 2.0 line (seems there are a few options?)
PSB Alpha P5
Paradigm Monitor SE Atom
Triangle Borea BRO3 (a bit above the $500 cutoff)

This list is based solely on scoping out sub-$500 speakers online and reading reviews. Not sure that's a great way to go, but then again, for under $500, I'm not sure there are many alternatives. Your feedback/advice/suggestions will be appreciated.
 
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