Equipment Recommendations - The Home For New System and Upgrade Advice

[Jbraswell]

i have a question about cueing up/needle drop into the run in groove using a 1200 mk2 in particular.i usually do my needle drops by hand not using the cue lever and have no issue with the cartridge/stylus immediately improperly jumping/skipping into the first track unless do to error on my part.my needle drops at times are questionable because of a shaky hand due to anxiety/stress issues i deal with.when i'm dealing with a anxiety/stress issue i would prefer to use the cue lever but i noticed when using it a little less than half of the times the cartridge/stylus likes to immediately improperly jump/skip into the first track.this is really starting to irk me, the anti skate is set and functions properly when playing records.if anyone has advice or insight to what might be causing this it would be greatly appreciated.

I use the drop lever on my Technics. It keeps me from scratching the vinyl.

I drop the needle about halfway from the outer edge and the music groove. It pulls it into the music within seconds. Depends on how good the cutting engineer is sometimes.

 

[Angsty]

i have a question about cueing up/needle drop into the run in groove using a 1200 mk2 in particular.i usually do my needle drops by hand not using the cue lever and have no issue with the cartridge/stylus immediately improperly jumping/skipping into the first track unless do to error on my part.my needle drops at times are questionable because of a shaky hand due to anxiety/stress issues i deal with.when i'm dealing with a anxiety/stress issue i would prefer to use the cue lever but i noticed when using it a little less than half of the times the cartridge/stylus likes to immediately improperly jump/skip into the first track.this is really starting to irk me, the anti skate is set and functions properly when playing records.if anyone has advice or insight to what might be causing this it would be greatly appreciated.

I used to have this problem, too — on both my Pioneer and Luxman. I increased the anti-skate and it largely disappeared.

 

[Vinyl&Kicks86]

I used to have this problem, too — on both my Pioneer and Luxman. I increased the anti-skate and it largely disappeared.

how much did you increase the anti skate by?

 

[Thackeraye]

For those that picked up the WiiM Pro, what have your use cases been? I'm going to hook mine up to my vintage receiver so it can stream, then get my Plex hooked up where I have my mp3s. My receiver also has only one aux input, so I am thinking of using the line in to put in my CD player or aux cord. Will this work? I know it'll bypass the Wiim's DAC, so maybe I could figure out a way to use the coax or optical.

I’ve connected my TV to it as well as using it as a streamer. I have a PS3 connected to the TV, so I’m using that as a CD player. It’s output is going into my Onkyo amp, which doesn’t have a DAC.

No issues so far. For the price I recommend.

 

[Melt Face Molly Drop]

I’ve connected my TV to it as well as using it as a streamer. I have a PS3 connected to the TV, so I’m using that as a CD player. It’s output is going into my Onkyo amp, which doesn’t have a DAC.

No issues so far. For the price I recommend.

What cord/connection are you using to go from the TV to the Wiim?

 

[Angsty]

how much did you increase the anti skate by?

I set my antiskate dial to twice my VTF. From there, I backed down until I got to the minimum setting that prevented the problem.

 

[Jbraswell]

On the Technics, I set the VTF to the recommended cart value and set anti-skate dial to match. It seems to work perfectly. I never see a need to adjust or modify across multiple carts.

 

[Thackeraye]

What cord/connection are you using to go from the TV to the Wiim?

Optical. I have a Samsung Frame, which has a central connection box, so the PS3 etc. connects via HDMI, then I optical out from the box into the Wiim.

No syncing issues that I can see, and no issues so far. You get an optical cable in the box when you buy it.

 

[Yer Ol' Uncle D]

DOAH!!! And I freakin' went back and read it again because I thought it was odd nobody mentioned them, lol.

Chemo is messing me up.

Don't come here often but for some reason I did today.

Keep pounding, brother. With all the good vibes transmitted from this board via Chicago(ish), there's no way you can lose.

 

[Yer Ol' Uncle D]

Still, that was around the median price of a used car in 1978. That’s commitment from a high schooler!

A few years before, but my dad bought a '67 Mustang convertible for $800 when I was 14. He gave it to me when I got my license, and it was my car during high school.

Fun fact - I still have that car.

I also still have the mid 70s Marantz receiver and Technics turntable I bought back then. My current loudspeakers are Infinity Kappa 7's from 1988.

Old shit is good shit. Which I find comforting as I'm an old shit.

 

[neuorder]

I don’t recommend that you bust your budget but I do suggest exploring your options. It may be worth seeking out a deal to move up; a separate DAC and phono for the C316BEE might run as much or more than the cost difference.

FWIW, I did find a Reddit posting for one user who compared the phono in the C316BEE to the C328 and found former lacking.

I was able to find an NAD c368 with a built-in bluesound node 2i module for $1399 CAD (about $1000 USD) saving about $650 CAD off retail. Double my budget but the wife gave me the ok and it sounds great so far. I was planning on getting the 316 or 328 plus a streamer anyway so it’s nice to have an all-in-one. It’s great having a solid digital system that doesn’t involve Bluetooth or plugging my phone/laptop into a 3.5 to RCA.

Since purchasing and getting back into lurking these forums after a couple years, I’ve noticed a lot of members are enjoying the Audiolab 6000A, which is giving me some buyer’s remorse haha. My dealer has one for the same price as the c368 with bluesound but it doesn’t include a streaming module. Should be going that route?

I’ve also found a “6000A play” online that includes the 6000N platform for $100 less than the NAD with bluesound, but I’ve heard bad things about the 6000N software vs BluOS.

Any thoughts? Or should I just shut up and enjoy my new amplifier?

 

[Angsty]

I strongly doubt that you will hear significant differences between those models. Enjoy your new amp!

 

[Joe Mac]

I was able to find an NAD c368 with a built-in bluesound node 2i module for $1399 CAD (about $1000 USD) saving about $650 CAD off retail. Double my budget but the wife gave me the ok and it sounds great so far. I was planning on getting the 316 or 328 plus a streamer anyway so it’s nice to have an all-in-one. It’s great having a solid digital system that doesn’t involve Bluetooth or plugging my phone/laptop into a 3.5 to RCA.

Since purchasing and getting back into lurking these forums after a couple years, I’ve noticed a lot of members are enjoying the Audiolab 6000A, which is giving me some buyer’s remorse haha. My dealer has one for the same price as the c368 with bluesound but it doesn’t include a streaming module. Should be going that route?

I’ve also found a “6000A play” online that includes the 6000N platform for $100 less than the NAD with bluesound, but I’ve heard bad things about the 6000N software vs BluOS.

Any thoughts? Or should I just shut up and enjoy my new amplifier?

If streaming is important stick with what you have. The audiolab streaming uses pretty user unfriendly software, especially compared with blueOS. Enjoy your new nad!

 

[Hemotep]

I was able to find an NAD c368 with a built-in bluesound node 2i module for $1399 CAD (about $1000 USD) saving about $650 CAD off retail. Double my budget but the wife gave me the ok and it sounds great so far. I was planning on getting the 316 or 328 plus a streamer anyway so it’s nice to have an all-in-one. It’s great having a solid digital system that doesn’t involve Bluetooth or plugging my phone/laptop into a 3.5 to RCA.

Since purchasing and getting back into lurking these forums after a couple years, I’ve noticed a lot of members are enjoying the Audiolab 6000A, which is giving me some buyer’s remorse haha. My dealer has one for the same price as the c368 with bluesound but it doesn’t include a streaming module. Should be going that route?

I’ve also found a “6000A play” online that includes the 6000N platform for $100 less than the NAD with bluesound, but I’ve heard bad things about the 6000N software vs BluOS.

Any thoughts? Or should I just shut up and enjoy my new amplifier?

I have that NAD too. It's been a great and versatile amp.

 

[mitchwagz]

Great deal, rear ports.

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Welp I actually ended up snagging the MA’s off of audiogon. Got them actually a decent amount less than what the seller was even asking but it was a price I felt comfortable gambling on these. Needless to say, I set them up today and they are glorious so far. I honestly have no idea what sort of play they already have on them (seller got them in a trade) but they are in darn near perfect condition. Very very happy with the purchase and thanks so much for bringing these to my attention!

 

[ngower]

Do I want to spend obscene amounts of money on a BDI media cabinet?

 

[mindhead1]

Do I want to spend obscene amounts of money on a BDI media cabinet?

You do. But you probably shouldn’t.

I looked at those, but opted for monoprice gear shelves since equipment is in my office.

Might have gone with nicer($$$) option if gear was in living room.

 

[ngower]

You do. But you probably shouldn’t.

For any reason? Or just it’s too much?

 

[mindhead1]

For any reason? Or just it’s too much?

Ha. Edited my original comment to include my thinking.

See above.

 

[ngower]

Ha. Edited my original comment to include my thinking.

See above.

Yeah I see now.

It would be a total luxury move, but also would probably follow me for the rest of my life. I’m gonna see if a local furniture store has any on display (it’s near where I’m going anyway) to see if I think the quality matches the marketing/price.